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Recipe of the Week: Cuban Lengua de res Estilo

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photo by The Masa AssAssin

Cuban Lengua de res Estilo

Tongue is not a meat that you see on many menus, but believe it or not... it can be prepared to be just a good as many of your highest cuts of beef. This is both an affordable and abundant piece of meat to purchase and is many times served cold once the tongue has been prepared. In this version, it is coupled with a number of other Cuban flavors to make this a filling and delicious dish to add to your cooking repertoire. 

1 4-5 lb Beef Tongue

 1 8oz can of tomato sauce

3 Pepper (Red, Green, and Yellow)

1 Onion chopped

3 fresh Garlic Cloves, crushed

3 tablespoons Vegetable Oil

2 teaspoons capers

1 tablespoon caper juice

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 Bay Leaf

2 Tablespoons Vinegar

Salt to taste 

*Directions are for pressure cooker* Please note directions for slow cooker and time accordingly

Directions: 

1. Place the Beef Tongue in a pressure cooker and cover with just enough water to cover the beef. If you don't have a pressure cooker, a slow cooker can be substituted although it will need to cook on low for 8 hours.

2. Add one tablespoon of salt, cover, and boil for approximately one hour. (If using pressure cooker)

3. Chop peppers and onions and tomato's separately 

4. Check tongue after 1 hour in the pressure cooker (8 in the slow cooker) to make sure that it is no longer pink in the middle.

5. Trim off the skin/fat and cut into 1/2 inch slices

6. Saute the chopped peppers and onions in the vegetable oil and add the rest of the ingredients as listed.

7. Stir in the tomato sauce 

8. Add tongue slices and cover on medium heat for 30-45 minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper.  

Enjoy!!!


Photo Series: Photographs of Havana

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Havana is easily one of the most architecturally diverse places that you will ever see. Everything from Colonial, Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Modernism and more is covered in different aspects of this interestingly historic city. The sun always seems to be just right for photography here. This coupled with the unique cityscape, old cars, and plethora of art everywhere make this a photographers dream. 

Currently, Havana resides as the third largest city in the Caribbean region with a population totaling around 2.1 inhabitants. The city was originally founded by the Spanish around 500 years ago (1515) of which it served as their central hub in colonization during this period.  Having originally been a used as a trading port, Havana was subject to attacks by early pirates and French corsairs of the day. Because of this, the Spanish turned Havana into the most heavily fortified city of its day in the America's. 

Through the course of Havana's almost five hundred year history, the city was subject to many different external influences. Everything from the Spanish, French, British, Russian, United States, Mexican and others made Havana as diverse and interesting as it currently is. Below we've highlighted some of our favorite pictures from our library of this great city. We hope you like them.

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Cannons in Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

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 Hotel Parque Central, Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

Boyeros, Havana, Cuba.jpg

Gran Teatro de La Habana, Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

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Havana Vedado, Cuba.jpg

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National Ballet School, Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

Sunset on the Malecon in Havana, Cuba.jpg

Havana Centro, Cuba..jpg

Hotel Sevilla looking down on the National Ballet School, Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

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Monumento A Las Victimas Del Maine in Havana Vedado, Cuba..jpg

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Old building in Havana Vieja, Cuba.jpg

Sidecar in Havana, Cuba..jpg

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photos by Robin Thom

Currently, we offer both a Weekend Tour and Jazz Excursion to this exquisite city. If you would like more info on traveling to Havana, simply call or fill out a request to receive a Free Cuba Brochure and Music of Cuba CD . We hope you enjoyed these photos and look forward to hearing from you soon!

Recipe of the Week: Frita Cubana (The Cuban Hamburger)

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photo by wallyg

The Frita Cubana has it's origins as a quick and delicious street food from the early to mid 20th century Cuba.  These fried potato sticks add a Cuban twist to the traditional American hamburger. Viewed more as a street / cafeteria oriented dish, they were some of the favorites of the early Cuban migrants. You can actually still find these served at some of the more authentic Cuban establishments in NYC and lower Florida. Here are a few that come highly regarded:

NYC:

Amor Cubano

NJ:

Rumba Cubano

Fl:

Sergio's 

El Mago

Now for the most important part...Our recipe!

The Traditional Frita Cubana

1. lb ground beef

1 lb ground pork

1/2 lb ground sausage

5 cloves of garlic finely minced

1/3 cup grated onion

1 tsp cumin

1 1/2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 1/2 tablespoons ketchup

6 to 8 grated or 1 large can or shoestring potatoes fried

onion slices 

vegetable oil

6-8 hamburger buns

Directions:

1: Mix together all ingredients by hand in a large bowl  *except the shoestring potatoes and onion*

2: Form 6 to 8 patties and fry or grill on medium heat to your liking

3. Fill the bottom of a skillet with 1/2 to 1 inch of vegetable oil and bring to medium heat

4. Fry the fritas to medium done (make sure not to over cook) and dry on paper towels 

5. Slap a patty on a bun, top with fritas, onions, and ketchup and VOILA! Cubano Deliciousness!

Our Girl in Havana: Touching Down in Cuba

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Our Girl in Havana: Touching down in Cuba

I’m happiest when I’m looking out of a window waiting to arrive somewhere I’ve never been before. It’s that sweet anticipation of unknownpleasures and experiences, closely allied with apprehension. But I was nervous about arriving in Cuba. The time between deciding to go and touching down was less than three weeks, so I hadn’t prepared myself or fine tuned my expectations. Apart from arranging a casa particular and reading a travel guide on the plane over, I had no plans. I tried to imagine myself there: I saw old American cars, mojitos and cigars; bright colors, colonial houses and music; I saw the Cuba of our collective imagination, images born from some sort of cultural osmosis.

 

By the time I arrived late at night, I was so tired I didn’t care where in the world I was. But as soon as I was in the cab, jazz wafting out of the open window, I felt excited again. We hurtled past police cars that looked like tin cans and 50s beasts with wide bonnets and rattling engines.Arriving in Verdado, Havana’s lived-in neighborhood, the streets were barely lit and empty. The buildings were modern, the pavements cracked and it had an abandoned air. I identified my casa by the elderly lady waiting on the second story balcony looking a little worried, her cigarette glowing in the dark as she took long drags. She waved at me as I got out of the cab, apparently the only tourist around. Frazzled from the flight, I felt lost and anxious. Where were the colors and the lights and the music? 

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But the next day, with the sun up and a renewed sense of optimism, I went to explore. I walked along the Malecon, Havana’s famous seafront promenade, and into Habana Vieja, the Old Town. Men seated in the doorways of crumbling old colonial houses whistled as I passed; a cacophony of catcalls and street sounds seemed to follow me wherever I walked, as bici taxis offered their services and fruit sellers hawked their wares. The multi-colored houses, the ripe yellow mangoes, the wide blue skies and the bright clothes everyone seemed to wear created an onslaught of colors, as intense as the sounds, and I felt steeped in Cuba, a sensory overload.

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I was a little lost in reverie, and people stopped me everywhere I went. Always beginning with some friendly banter, sometimes they were trying to sell me cigars other times they wanted to take me to their uncle’s restaurant. I met a young boy with a bad limp who told me his dad lived in Liverpool and he wanted to travel to England for an operation on his leg. At first he tried to sell me tickets to a salsa show, and then to take me to the best mojitos in town, or so he said. Happy to practice my Spanish, and because he had all the sweet savviness of a ten-year-old kid who made a buck from passing tourists, I sat and chatted to him. When he realized there was no money to be made from me, he relaxed, and while looking out to sea we talked about what it’s like being a child in Cuba.

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This is one of the most striking things about this country. Yes, often those who stop you want to sell you something or are on commission to bring you to a restaurant or bar, but once you get past that, there is a genuine curiosity and friendliness that goes beyond the mercenary. I spent my second day having tea with three old ladies in their small, windowless apartment. They refused to accept anything in exchange, so we sat, attempting to understand each other while their dog whined in its sleep.

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The Cuba of our collective imagination does exist: the streets are crowded with American classic cars; Fidel and Che gaze down staunchly from every surface; you can buy a mojito for $2 and cigars are falling from the sky. But the aspects that make it distinctly Cuban are far more elusive than buildings, cars or billboards. It’s both everything you expect it to be, and unlike anywhere you’ve ever been before. 

Writing and Photos by Tyler Wetherall

Centro Havana Cuba: Our Top 5 things to do while there

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Centro Havana is home to some of the most unique architecture that Havana has to offer. It's also a cultural hotspot with many enriching and unique spots to see. Below we've highlighted some of our favorites. Feel free to add to the conversation and share any that we missed! 

 

1. Callejón de Hamel

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One of the best reasons to visit this area near the University of Havana, is the wonderful rumba music by carnival street bands that starts every Sunday at noon and continues into the evening hours. This Afro-Cuban music is very hypnotic with its rhythmic chants and drum patterns. This fun location also has funky street murals and fascinating sculptures. A lot of the artwork was created by the renowned artist, Salvador González Escalona. Delicious food and artistic craft-wares are sold in the open-air bazaar as well. Callejón de Hamel is a very magical part of Havana Centro Cuba.

 

 

2. La Casa de La Musica

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photo from iwona_kellie

If you love to dance to salsa music, this is the place for you. The massive dance floor really heats up in the evenings and that is when the fun really begins. Many of the big bands play here so you will get to dance to some terrific music. The live shows start at 4 p.m. and runs to 11 p.m. every day. There is no special dress code so come as you are. It's very easy to find and the cover charge is minimal. Food and beverages are reasonably priced. 

 

3. The 'Cabildo Quisicuaba' Community Project 

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photo from mssolangeb

This is located in the Los Sitios neighborhood of Havana Centro Cuba. The name of this project, "Quisicuaba," comes partly from the name of free blacks who originally came from the southern part of Angolan Basin in the 16th century. The goal of the project is to restore the traditional folk culture by taking into consideration the cultural, spiritual, and material needs of the people who live there. You will be able to meet Cabildo Quisicuaba Community Project members to discuss and learn how African traditions and religion have influenced the society and culture. 

 

4. San Cristobal Paladar

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This charming restaurant offers traditional Cuban food. Upon entering the paladar (restaurant in a home) you will be transported back to Havana's colonial times. It has a very beautiful courtyard where you can relax and enjoy a delicious meal. The "Lobster Hemingway" is one of their most popular dishes. Don't be surprised if the San Cristobal Paladar's chef comes over to your table for a friendly chat. Besides the Cuban cuisine, cocktails and wine are available at very affordable prices.

 

5. The Malecon

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If perhaps you are looking for a place to stroll around while visiting Havana then the Malecon is the place for you. The ocean views are spectacular, especially the crashing waves. There are pastel colored buildings from the earlier part of the 20th century to see and cafés to unwind in while you sip wine. Many local people fish from the seawall to catch their dinner. Don't miss the sunsets because they are sensational.

If you would like more information on the sights and sounds of traveling to Cuba, feel free to fill out a request for one of our beautiful brochures. It's full of vibrant photos, travel tips, and a free Music of Cuba cd. 

Sweet Deals to Cuba. Save $200-$300 Off!

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Feb Deals

For the month of February, consider the gift of travel with Insight Cuba! Whether it’s for yourself or a loved one, everyone will swoon over the exotic island of Cuba.

And with these sweet discounts for upcoming tours, Cupid himself just may be jealous.

Sale Ends February 28th. Act Now!

 

Cuban Music & Art Tour

Mar 29 – Apr 6, 2013 | Save $300! | Use Promo Code: Cuba329

 

Classic Cuba Tour

Apr 2 – Apr 9, 2013 | Save $200! | Use Promo Code: Cuba402

 

Weekend in Havana Tour

Apr 4 – Apr 7, 2013 | Save $200! | Use Promo Code: Cuba404

 

Undiscovered Cuba Tour

Apr 15 – Apr 26, 2013 | Save $300! | Use Promo Code: Cuba415

 

Call one of our expert Travel Specialists at 1-800-450-2822 or visit www.insightcuba.com for more information on this holiday promotion.

*Dates and discounts listed above are for new registrations only.

Cuba Travel in 2013: Not if, But When by Conner Gorry

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cuba 2013

For many people the question isn’t if to come to Cuba, but when. Like with any trip, there are the usual considerations – when you have time off, family obligations, your financial situation, and the weather – but to maximize your experience here, it pays to plan ahead. Visitors from the United States are subject to restrictions under the Travel Ban, so have even more reason to plan with care since it may be the first (hopefully not the last!) time they set foot on the ‘Forbidden Island.’

Whether it’s your first or fifth time here, some general timing elements are worth a mention. Importantly, hurricane season (June 1- November 30) should not be cause for anxiety: I’ve experienced many hurricanes here over the years and have covered Cuba’s disaster preparation and response in my work as a journalist and the Cuban strategy – for keeping both locals and tourists out of harm’s way – is effective.

While the fixed itineraries of People-to-People programs may or may not include the events listed below, the cultural happenings, opportunities for meaningful exchange with Cubans, and the energy accompanying these festivals and fiestas are superlative.

If 2013 is your year for Cuba travel, try and coincide your trip with one of these exciting festivities:

 

Festival Habanos | February 26-March 2

www.habanos.com/festival.aspx?fid=12&mid=95&lang=en

As a daily cigar smoker, I love this annual event where cigar aficionados from around the world come to sample Cuba’s smokeable delights. What’s more, fine tobacco is handed out like candy and proceeds from the art auction go to the Cuban health system. Auxiliary events include concerts, trips to tobacco-growing regions, and cigar factory tours.    

 

Habana Vieja: Ciudad en Movimiento | April 10-14

http://www.danzateatroretazos.cu/index.php/festivales/festival-ciudad-en-movimiento

Havana Vieja, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site 30 years ago, is Cuba’s #1 tourist destination with reason. The history is palpable in its colonial palm-shaded plazas, people bucket-hauling water testify to its present, and new private businesses hint at its future. But Havana’s historic core roars to life during this festival when dancers of all types use the streets as their stage, performing day and night in rehearsed and impromptu dance performances.

 

Cine Pobre | Late April, early May (dates to be announced)

http://www.festivalcinepobre.com/gibara

Cuba’s wildly successful budget film festival (now in its 11th year) takes over this seaside town 45 minutes from Holguín each spring with movie screenings, star-studded conferences and raucous concerts and parties. It’s a wonderful setting for cultural exchanges and seeing what young, hungry filmmakers are up to.

 

Romerias del Mayo | May 2-8

http://romeriasdemayo.blogspot.com/

The first week in May, Holguín (the ‘City of Parks’) transforms into the country’s hub of youth culture, with the next generation of artists from all genres strutting their stuff in parks, plazas, public spaces and galleries. Actors, painters, musicians, dancers and more hold workshops, concerts, exhibits and performances in this not-to-be-missed event in eastern Cuba.

 

International Anti-Homophobia Day | May 17

http://www.cenesexualidad.sld.cu/

Sexual diversity has come a long way in Cuba in recent years, thanks in large part to work by the Centro Nacional de Educacion Sexual (CENESEX) and programs focusing on homophobia, machismo and related bias. This event, kicked off with a parade in the heart of Vedado, is now a highlight of the spring calendar when the tribe gathers for workshops, panels, concerts, and an absolutely fabulous gala at the Karl Marx theater.

 

La Fiesta del Fuego | July 3-9

http://www.casadelcaribe.cult.cu/

Folks in the know will tell you: Santiago de Cuba throws a great party – especially in July when this celebration of Caribbean culture rolls into the ‘Heroic City.’ Despite the damage wrought by Hurricane Sandy, Fiesta del Fuego 2013 promises to renew the energy of Cuba’s first capital with exuberant parades a la Carnaval, free outdoor concerts, and loads of cheap food and drink.

 

Ballet Festival | Late November to early December

www.balletcuba.cult.cu/

The legendary Cuban prima ballerina Alicia Alonso was recently named UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador and this festival is the perfect time for ballet buffs to be in Havana. In addition to international companies, the Nacional Ballet de Cuba always has multiple performances, and the streets are full of dancers and their fans making their way from theater to theater to take in all kinds of dance, not just ballet.

 

Festival de Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano (Havana Film Festival) | First week of December

www.habanafilmfestival.com/

The US has Sundance, France has Cannes, and Havana has this world-renowned festival featuring films, documentaries, and shorts from Cuba, the region, and the world. Headquartered at the Hotel Nacional, this is an exciting time to be in Havana when film fanatics, stars, directors, and distributors hop from cinemas, to concerts, to notorious after-parties.

 

Festival Internacional Jazz Plaza | Early to late December

www.jazzdecuba.com

Chucho Valdés, Wynton Marsalis, Roy Hargrove – giants of jazz play their hearts out each December at this music festival where the jams, concerts, and parties test the stamina of the most die-hard night owls. With multiple performances by established and up-and-coming musicians, there is no better event to test the pulse of Cuban jazz and hear world-renowned players at affordable prices.

 

Conner Gorry is Senior Editor at MEDICC Review and author of the Havana Good Time app, available for iOS and Android. She blogs at Here is Havana and has two Cuba stories in the anthology Best Travel Writing 2012.

 

Live from Cuba: Hidden Havana

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Live From Cuba: Hidden Havana

 

Let’s face it: Cuba can be a trying place to travel. Even residents, when asked how they are and how things are going, respond with perennially popular phrases like ‘no es fácil’ (it’s not easy) and ‘en la luchita’ (struggling). Whether it’s the heat, bureaucracy, interminable delays, or unexpected changes in itinerary, lodging, or transport taxing your goodwill and patience, inevitably the time will come when you’re ready to escape. Perhaps you’ve had enough of the hustlers or your head is spinning with Cuba’s complexities and you’re simply looking for a quiet place to digest it all.

 

I know: I’ve been there more times than I care to remember.

 

In order to maintain some semblance of mental health here in Havana (which can be loud, crowded, and generally just too in-your-face), I’ve sought out spots to quiet the psychic static, to give my brain some breathing room. With this in mind, I offer this selection of my favorite hidden spots, places casual visitors rarely happen upon. Indeed, a few of the sites I’m about to reveal may even surprise some of your Cuban friends. When you hit that traveler’s wall (and we all do!) I suggest checking out:

Parque Monte Barreto: It’s amazing how many Havana residents still haven’t explored this giant green space spanning Calles 82 and 70 between 7ma & 9a Avenidas in Playa. It’s one of the city’s most appealing parks, with pony rides, a botanical garden, basketball courts, and huge expanses of grass for running around, dotted with trees for shade. It makes a perfect picnic spot whether you bring your own or buy good, cheap comida criolla and refreshments from the several kiosks within the park proper.

Tip: All food is sold here in pesos cubanos (CUP) and although you can also pay in peso convertibles (CUC), this is a good place to try out the double currency.

 

Jardines del 1830: A true oasis, this spectacular seaside escape at the far western extent of the Malecón is an insider, off-the-beaten track favorite not to be missed. Every path, bridge, and secret nook and cranny here is built out of shells and coral, the arched and tiled Moorish gazebo is popular with trumpet players practicing, and many fisherman wile away the day casting their lines here. It’s especially picturesque at sunset and is a fine place to indulge in a cigar and bottle of wine (bring your own; beer is sold at the restaurant adjacent).

Tip: To access the Jardines, walk through the restaurant or talk to the folks at the gate and let them know you’d like to visit the gardens. Don’t forget your camera.

 

Bazar 43: Tucked away on a leafy residential side street, this outdoor bar and grill on Calle 22 between Avenidas 41 & 43 is a secret save to those who live and work in the area. I like this place for its unbelievably friendly service, economical prices, breezy outdoor setting (protected by a traditional palm-thatched ranchón), and neighborhood feel. There’s a full bar.

Tip: Meals here feature traditional Cuban cooking – grilled pork, fish or chicken accompanied by congrís (rice and beans) and root vegetable – at the very nice price of between $3 and $6.

 

Basilica pocket park: These days Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is one of the most hectic and crowded corners of Cuba. It makes sense since it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and also the most visited attraction in the entire country. When you’re in need of respite from the hustle and heat, head to the little park behind the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis on the southern side of the Plaza de San Francisco. Entirely shaded by old-growth trees, grab a bench here to recoup before diving into more sightseeing or shopping. There are rotating outdoor art exhibits and interesting photo opportunities including a mosaic baptismal pool.

Tip: The long-haired fellow guarding the entrance to the Basilica around the corner is a treasured character from Havana’s history known as the Caballero de Paris. Locals and visitors-in-the-know stroke his (already burnished) beard for good luck.

 

Conner Gorry is Senior Editor at MEDICC Review and author of the Havana Good Time app, available for iPhone/Pad and Android. She blogs at Here is Havana and has two Cuba stories in the anthology Best Travel Writing 2012


Our Girl in Havana: The new dining scene

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People never used to come to Cuba for the cuisine. Rations, food shortages and bureaucratic barriers all contributed to the demise of what was once a thriving food culture. Much like the colonial buildings, it was left to crumble with a lot more pressing concerns on the collective plate than fine dining.

But now with Raul Castro at the helm and his 2010 reform program in full swing, there are new private enterprises opening up every day with the majority in the service industry. Whereas once the choice was between government-run restaurants with renownedly empty pantries, a handful of notable paladares such as La Guarida or eating in your casa particular, now dining out in the capital is a joy.

 The emerging culinary scene has all the frisson of the new.

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I was in the city to work on a travel guide, so it was my job to find the best new spots in town. For my first night, I decided on a place close to my casa particular. I headed out into the dimly lit streets of Vedado by myself, trying to remember the way without looking at my map too often. I turned a corner, and there was just one lamp in the entire street with a collection of children congregated underneath it, playing football within the circumference of its glow. Other than that the street was empty.

 In general, I don’t recommend walking around at night alone in foreign cities, but sometimes there isn’t any choice, especially in a city where blackouts are frequent and light bulbs seem to be a scarce commodity. Nervous, I kept going.

 The address led me to a tower block, which I eyed suspiciously along with the lone man sat outside on a wall. I asked him if this was Castasy Tal. He nodded and led me inside where he indicated I should follow him into the elevator. It was small, metal and sinister alerting all my horror-movie instincts. I did not want to get in that lift alone with an unknown man. But he was so insistent that I was hurried in against my better judgement. For the 30 seconds I spent ascending those 11 floors, I played out tragic and terrible endings in my head.

 The lift doors opened and I found myself in a kitsch and homely living room, immediately greeted by the utterly charming Fernandez brothers and offered a Caipirinha. Sinister this was not. Castas y Tal harks back to the original paladares when guests were welcomed into people’s home. You very much dine in their front room - the doors to their bedrooms are open and you share their bathroom. I ate a delicious Creole chicken with pineapple sauce and smugly admired the views.

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Every paladar I sought out had its own story: I went dancing with waiters; I made pizza dough with chefs; it took me so long to find BellaHabana I ended up dining alone with the owner as the rest of the restaurant was shut.

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This is one of the beautiful things about eating in Havana. The peculiar way the restaurant scene has developed means that the most interesting places are tucked away down back streets and inside people’s homes, and each one has found its own way to survive amidst the red tape tangle that is Cuba. You're unlikely to have the same experience twice. 

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With so much change in the country, the days of seeking out dining spots through unmarked doors and up sinister tower blocks may be numbered. But for now at least, Havana has a completely unique dining culture ripe for exploration.

 

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on twitter @tylerwrites

http://tylerwetherall.com/

https://twitter.com/tylerwrites

Cuba Quickly Becoming a Hotspot for Gay Travel

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NEW YORK (March 11, 2013) – Cuba, the all-all-but-forbidden country now legally open for Americans, has been attracting a growing group of savvy travelers: those from the LGBT community.

Cuba’s gay culture has expanded notably in recent years, and since U.S. travel restrictions to Cuba were loosened in early 2011, more and more gay travelers are taking advantage of the opportunity to visit the enticing island, with its vibrant arts and music scenes, welcoming locals, and current status as a must-visit hotspot.

“Cuba is definitely a destination that people want to go to, especially the gay market,” says Jim Smith, founder of Coda International Tours, an operator that specializes in luxury gay travel and has its first trip to Cuba, in partnership with Insight Cuba, a leading provider of legal travel to Cuba, in April. “It’s a very warm and friendly destination. Gay travelers are usually on the cutting edge – they are the first to establish trends, not just follow them. They’re going to places before they’re flooded with the average tourists.”

While Cuba is far from flooded with American tourists, travel experts say the Communist-run country is on the verge of big changes that will forever alter its landscape. For just the third time in 50 years, Cuba is legally open to all American visitors (who must travel with a U.S. government-licensed operator such as Insight Cuba). Many contend that the longstanding trade embargo will be lifted in the not-so-distant future, which will open up the country to U.S. commercialization.

The bottom line, says Smith, who has been to Cuba seven times, is that travelers shouldn’t wait to book a trip. “One of the things that people mention when they’re booking travel is how Americanized the world is becoming,” he notes. “There’s no doubt that Cuba, only 90 miles from the United States, will be Americanized practically overnight once the travel ban is lifted. There will be a lot of good things about it, like pushing Cuba toward more democratic ideals, but it will bring in all of the American food and hotels that people travel to get away from. And that will happen very quickly.”

Further incentive for gay visitors, and the tour operators who cater to them, is that Cuba’s gay culture has grown considerably as of late, especially in Havana and Santa Clara. Many gay rights advocate point to the efforts of Mariela Castro Espin, the daughter of president Raul Castro who is widely viewed a champion for gay, bisexual, and transgender rights in Cuba, as part of the reason. A married mother of three, Castro has advocated for equality in both Cuba and the United States, and Coda International Tour’s upcoming trip to Cuba will include a visit to the National Center for Sex Education, of which Castro is the director.

In May 2008, the country’s the state-television network transmitted Brokeback Mountain on TV, the first time a gay film has been broadcast in Cuba, and in June of the same year, Cuba authorized sex-change operations. In addition, a growing topic of discussion has been the legalization of gay marriage in Cuba.

In the meantime, Cuba will continue to emerge as a hot new destination for gay travelers.

“There’s nothing to prevent the gay traveler from thoroughly enjoying a trip to Cuba,” Smith says. “There’s no hostility or open animosity toward gay people, and certainly not gay tourists. And people are very friendly.”

For more information, contact Coda International Tours at 1-888-677-2632 or www.coda-tours.com, or Insight Cuba at 1-800-450-CUBA (2822) or www.insightcuba.com.

Recipe of the Week: Cuban Coconut Rum Flan

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Photo by:  Quirkyrocket

Preheat the oven and prepare your sweet tooth because this dessert is sure to satisfy your sugary cravings. What was once considered a savory dish by the Roman empire later became a sweet treat by the europeans and spanish conquistadors, now finds its way to your dinner table. Salud!

Ingredients:

1-1/2 cup sugar, divided 

5 large egg yolks 

3 large whole eggs 

1-3/4 cups coconut milk 

1 cup milk 

3 tablespoons dark rum 

 

Directions:

Heat oven to 325 degrees. Have ready a 9" round glass pie dish. 

Place a clean kitchen towel in bottom of shallow baking pan large enough to hold a pie dish. Fill baking pan with enough boiling water to come halfway up sides of dish; transfer baking pan to oven. 

Place 3/4 cup sugar in a heavy-bottomed, medium skillet. Place over medium-high heat; cook until sugar begins to melt, swirling pan. Cook until melted and medium-dark brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; pour caramelized sugar into pie dish. Swirl dish until sugar evenly coats bottom; let cool. 

In a large bowl, whisk together remaining 3/4 sugar, salt, egg yolks, and whole eggs until combined. Pour into pie dish. Transfer to hot-water bath in oven. Bake 45-50 minutes. 

Refrigerate at least 4 hours. When ready to serve, run a knife between flan and pie dish. Place a serving dish on top of flan and invert. Slice, and garnish with any remaining syrup. 

Live from Cuba: Top 10 Free Experiences in Havana

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 Cuba is a unique travel destination for many and sundry reasons: physically, it’s the largest Caribbean island, so there are lots of pockets and territory to explore; geographically, it lies only 90 miles from US shores, but crossing those miles is complex; and politically it’s an anomaly, having maintained a socialist revolution for over half a century. Pillars of that revolution include free and equitable education and health care, a commitment to developing amateur sports and making them accessible to the entire population, and nurturing autochthonous Cuban culture in its broadest sense.

 

For visitors, this translates into opportunities to experience the highly accomplished, totally fun, and fairly addictive activities that makes Cuba such an enjoyable and educational travel experience. What’s more, many of these events are free and bring Cubans out in droves, providing a positive setting for meaningful exchanges between locals and foreigners. Here are some of my favorite Havana freebies, in no particular order:

 

1. Peña de Pancho Amat – Cuba’s virtuoso tres player and his band El Cabildo de Son hold a jam session at the Museo Nacional de la Música (Obrapía #509, between Bernaza & Villegas; 861-9846), every third Thursday of the month at 5pm. This is a must for fans of traditional Cuban music.

 

2. Amigos de Fangio– This weekly gathering of antique cars, Harley Davidson motorcycles (with the odd Triumph and BSA thrown in), and Schwinn bicycles is a gregarious affair replete with DJ, Bucaneros, and lots of talk about anything with wheels. This is a great opportunity for photographers to get some stellar shots. Saturdays, 5-9pm, La Piragua (Malecón & Calle O).

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3. Habana Bici Polo – There are over 400 clubs worldwide playing this polo on bikes and Cubans have taken to it like fish to water since the Havana club was founded in 2012. Weekly matches are held in El Vedado (corner of Calles 23 & 2), Sundays at 4pm until dark. Visitors are invited to play but beware: it’s harder than it looks!

 

4. Casa del ALBA – This center of Latin American culture almost always has something interesting on including concerts, book launches, and art openings. Stop by their headquarters (Línea, between Calles C & D; 833-2151) and check the schedule to see what’s on.

 

5. Coche Mambí – Once the Presidential coach (1912-1959), this meticulously maintained train car from the early 1900s in the heart of Habana Vieja (Callejón Churruca between Oficios and Avenida del Puerto) is a real treat – even if you’re not crazy about trains. It features Baccarat crystal and mahogany furniture, the original AC system using dry ice and the First Family sleeping quarters exactly as they were back in the day.

 

6. Debates del Último Jueves– Founded in 1984, Temas is Cuba’s top intellectual-political-economic magazine. The last Thursday of every month (except August and December), the editors hold expert panels, followed by audience debate on topics of current import in Cuba like: How’s the Poder Popular Doing?; Taste Makers: Consumerism and the New Rich; and Public Opinion & Decision Making. Centro Cultural Fresa y Chocolate, 4pm (Calles 23 & 10; 836-2096). 

 

7. Estudio 5 – Artists’ studios pepper Havana. Pop in and you can meet the artists, buy their work and even watch them creating it, but Kamyl Ballaudy’s space in the shadow of the Santo de Angel church is special. Not only is he a gregarious host in one of the hottest up-and-coming Havana Vieja neighborhoods, his depictions of Martí, Havana seascapes and Cuban fauna is unsurpassed (Compostela #5, between Cuarteles & Chacón; 766-3153).

 

8. Concerts, Casa de las Americas– Founded in 1959 by the inimitable Haydee Santamaría, this cultural institution (Calle G, corner 3A; 838-2706) promotes all manner of Latin American culture with a magazine, seminars, literature congresses and prizes, art openings and more. Try to catch one of the concerts by notable Cuban musicians in the Salón Che Guevara – always a great happening.

 

9. Casa Fuster – Some people call José Fuster the “Cuban Gaudí,” a moniker well-deserved: an accomplished artist, Fuster has completely transformed his corner of his Jaimanitas neighborhood by running wild with mosaics. The family doctor’s office, many of the neighboring houses, even the street markers are covered in tile and Fuster’s studio and house (Calle 226, corner 3A; 271-2932) are open to the public. You have to  see it to believe it.

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10. Taller Experimental de Gráfica – A visit to this working studio in an alley just off the Plaza de la Catedral (Callejón del Chorro; 862-0979) where Cuban printmakers bring their ideas to life is an education in itself. On any given day, artists will be hard at work rolling out paint and prints, most of which are available for sale (and legal to bring into the USA).

 

Conner Gorry is Senior Editor at MEDICC Review and author of the Havana Good Time app, available for iPhone/Pad and Android. She blogs at Here is Havana and has two Cuba stories in the anthology Best Travel Writing 2012

photos by Robin Thom 

These Fun Facts About Cuba Will Have You Astonished!

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Written by: DebbyD 


Many people are probably familiar with Cuba's natural beaches of crystal-clear waters and delicate white sand. They may even know about Cuba's three mountain ranges, two-long provinces of savanna and abundant valleys known around the world such as Sugar Mill, Yumurí, and Viñales. Warm, transparent waters, conservation of the ecosystem, biodiversity, and a stunning variety of distinct coral reefs attract scuba diving aficionados from all over. Cuba's waters are the habitat of some 500 species of fish, 200 sponges, meadows of gorgonians, coral gardens, and caves. 

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The Cuban people are vivacious, rich in spirit, curious, and wholesome. However, did you know that Cuba has one of the highest-literacy rates in the whole of Latin America? In addition, when Christopher Columbus first came upon Cuba back in 1492, he believed that he had disembarked in China! 

It's no secret that every country has abstruse amounts of facts hidden behind the annals of their own distinct history. For instance, many may envision Cuban families filled with hordes of contending siblings, but this is not the case, in fact, it's not even close! Cubans love children; however, they have only one per family and have the lowest-birth rates in the whole of the Western Hemisphere. This seems to contradict the reality since Cuba is the most colonized country in all of the Caribbean with over 11 million inhabitants. 

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Here are some more Fun Facts that may astonish you about Cuba:

-Unbeknownst to many, Cuba actually possesses one of the best health care systems anywhere in the world! The typical life expectancy is equal to any other progressive nation. In addition, medical technology is one of Cuba's most leading exports. 

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-Schooling, health care, and food, are all promptly available without cost to any Cuban citizen. Moreover, Cuba boast the utmost doctor-to-populace percentage of any country in the world. There is such an abundance of doctors in Cuba, that many are frequently appointed overseas to countries in need of medical professionals.

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-By total region, Cuba is deemed the 105th biggest country in the world, and the 16th biggest island anywhere in the world by land region. Over 4,000 islands and cays share Cuba. 

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-Cuba's dry-season is from November to April and the wet-season is from May to October.

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-The official language of Cuba is Spanish even though many Cubans speak English. 

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-The Cuban population love baseball. Baseball means as much to Cuba as Soccer does to Europe and Columbia!

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-Cuba is the habitat of the Bee Hummingbird acknowledged as the world's tiniest bird. This adorable bird only reaches two-inches in length in adulthood. 

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-Cuba is world renowned for their top-quality cigars.

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-There is no authoritative state religion in Cuba; nonetheless, the preponderance of Cubans are Catholics. 

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-The famous writer Ernest Hemingway wrote "The Old Man and the Sea," and "For Whom the Bell Tolls," while living in Cuba.

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-Cuba is frequently referred to as El Cocodrilo, which means alligator in Spanish. This is because the aerial view of Cuba bears resemblance to the actual form of an alligator.

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Cuba has not only a vibrant history, but also many intriguing facts that amazes people once they discover them. Cuba is loved by tourist the world over, upon learning more about the country; it may just be the perfect place for your next vacation!

 

Photos by: Robin Thom, © all rights reserved

Recipe of the Week: Frituritas de Malanga (Malanga Fritters)

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Photo by: Jeffrey 

Malanga is a staple ingredient in authentic Cuban cuisine. This recipe offers a unique and delicate snack great for spring/summer afternoons. A root vegetable that many describe as nutty and earthy Malanga can be utilized in a variety of ways. It can be used as a natural thickener, made into creamy soups and many other flavorful and distinct variations. Hopefully your taste buds are ready for this delightful/yummy ride! 

Ingredients

-2 lbs. yellow malanga, peeled and cut into large pieces
-1⁄4 cup flour
-1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley
-Salt and freshly ground black pepper
-Vegetable oil

Directions 

1. Put malanga in a large pot, cover with cold water by 2", and simmer over medium heat until very soft when pierced with a fork, 1–1 1⁄2 hours. Drain all but 2⁄3 cup of the cooking liquid, then mash malanga with a potato masher until smooth. Beat in flour and parsley, and season generously with salt and sparingly with pepper.

2. Pour oil into a large skillet to a depth of 1 1⁄2". Heat oil over medium heat until about 350° on a candy thermometer. Carefully slide kitchen-spoonfuls of batter into oil, frying in batches, until fritters are golden, 3 minutes. 

3. Drain on paper towels and enjoy!

Recipe of the Week: Papas Rellenas

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Photo by: Balise

Papas Rellenas (stuffed potatoes) are a Chilean and Peruvian traditional dish. However, there are many Caribbean variations to this tasty recipe. In Cuba, the potatoes are stuffed with picadillo- a customary dish consisting of beef, tomatoes, cumin and other flavorful ingredients. It is no wonder that it is such a favorite among many Cuban communities abroad! 

 

Ingredients 

-6 potatoes, peeled and quartered

-
1 tsp. salt & 
garlic powder


-Parsley for garnish


-2 Tbsp. Warm milk 

-Picadillo (you can find recipe here)

-
2 eggs, beaten with 1 Tbsp. Water

-
1-2 cups breadcrumbs


-Oil 

 

Directions


1. Boil potatoes until they are fully cooked


2. Drain and mash the potatoes – adding the salt, garlic powder and warm milk. DO NOT ADD BUTTER


3. Let cool. Grab a handful of the mashed potatoes and make a small bowl (about the size of half a large golf ball), making an indentation in the middle. Repeat.

4. Stuff the indentations with picadillo and bring the two halves together and smooth the outside. You should have a small picadillo-stuffed potato at this point.  Repeat until you run out of potatoes or picadillo


5. Beat the eggs with water until they are fluffy.

6. Dip the rellena into the beaten egg, then roll them in the breadcrumbs mixture until lightly covered. Repeat once more

7. Cover the rellenas and refrigerate for at least 3 or 4 hours or overnight before the next step

8. Remove from the refrigerator and allow them to cool down to room temperature before frying

9. Fill a large frying pan with enough oil to cover half a ball

10. Fry each ball at least 2 minutes per side, turning once – or at least until they’re golden brown. 

 

Note: There are many ways to serve papas rellenas- as a main dish or appertizer, hot or cold or even with spicy breadcrumbs! Share your papas rellenas experience with us on Facebook! Buen provecho!

 

 

 

 


Insight Cuba's Tom Popper on CNN

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A taste of the forbidden fruit and now everyone wants a bite!  When superstar Beyoncé and hubby Jay-Z decided to spend a weekend in Cuba to celebrate their fifth anniversary they didn’t expect politicians to investigate the legality and purpose of their trip. However, unbeknownst to many, Americans can actually legally travel to Cuba. Insight Cuba’s president, Tom Popper explains this and more on CNN.

Hotels in Havana- What You Need to Know

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The greatest aspect of Cuban travel would have to be the hospitality and receptivity of the locals. Their warmth and willingness to share their stories and most importantly their time is outstanding. It should come as no surprise then, that the actual hospitality industry is as equally great if not better. Below are some of the best hotels Havana has to offer.

Melia Cohiba 

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This luxury 5 star high rise is located in the Vedado district of downtown Havana.  Each room (342 rooms and 120 suites) has a view of the beautiful Malecón and is equipped with ultramodern Cuban facilities. Not to mention the exceptional service from the friendly and knowledgeable staff. Meliá Cohiba has many great dining options (5 restaurants and 6 bars), a shopping mall, a cigar bar and a plethora of exciting nightlife selections such as the Copa Room for live salsa, nightly showcases featuring Cuban bands at the Habana Café and smooth sounds at the popular Jazz Café. The hotel also offers spaces for meetings and banquets that can fit a significant amount of guests. Other amenities include a beauty salon, gym, sauna, pool, baseball-themed restaurant, piano bar Jacuzzi and solarium.

Hotel Presidente

The Presidente might have had a complete renovation in 2000 but the Victorian lobby and display of colonial furniture and antiques speak to the historic yet stylish atmosphere of this 4 star hotel. Highlighted with more than 400-catalogued pieces of art, guests will enjoy the remarkable visuals the hotel has to offer. In addition to the artistic and historic feel there are plenty of sights within the area for guest to enjoy such as the famous Havana harbor and Cuba’s Foreign Affairs Ministry.  The Presidente also offers a gym, sauna, poolside bar and grill as well as massage and reflex therapy.

Hotel Parque Central

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Located in the heart of the city, Parque Central is an ideal setting for those who enjoy the convenience of short walks to popular attractions such as the National Museum of Fine Arts, Museum of the Revolution, Partagágas Tobacco Factory and many others.  The hotel offers a classic Greek style swimming pool with a section made especially for children.  Dining options include El Paseo, which offers a unique and specialized selection and some of the world’s most exquisite wines!

The Saratoga

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The architectural design of this swanky hotel is eclectic with a predominance of the neoclassical. Ideally situated near some of the greatest attractions the city has to offer such as the Ambos Mundos Hotel, Fraternity Park, the famous Partagás Cigar Factory and Cuba's most important opera and ballet house: Havana's Gran Teatro. The Hotel Saratoga is perfect for guests who wish to combine visits to places of historical-cultural interest and the city's nightlife. There are several dining options, a swimming pool on the roof terrace, a sundeck, gym and a variety of other services.

All of the hotels mentioned in this post are typically used during our tours. Participants of the Undiscovered Cuba and Scenic Cuba tours usually stay at Hotel Presidente. Other tours such as Jazz in HavanaWeekend in Havana as well as other trips, tend to stay at the Melia Cohiba. Custom groups mostly stay at the Hotel Saratoga and Hotel Parque Central. Request more information about Cuba and Insight Cuba here or chat with a travel specialist! 

 

Recipe of the Week: Torticas de Morón

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Cuban salsa singer La Lupe has often been revered as La Reina del Latin Soul (the queen of Latin Soul). Her unique and fascinating style of performance usually stirred the pot yet; her talents and passion left little to no room for debate.  During an appearance on the Dick Cavett show in 1973, the Santiago de Cuba native surprised Cavett with a homemade batch of everyone’s favorite cookies, torticas de Morón. Below you will find the recipe for the famous Cuban sugar cookies, which similar to La Lupe, will always be sweet and delightful!

Ingredients

1 cup sugar

1 cup vegetable shortening 

4 cubs flour

1½ teaspoons lime zest

1 teaspoon salt

1-teaspoon baking powder 

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Directions

1. In a large bowl, thoroughly mix together the sugar and shortening with a wooden spoon. Gradually add the remaining ingredients. Be sure to use your hands for this part.

2. Shape the dough into a roll about 2 inches in diameter

3. Wrap the roll in plastic and refrigerate for an hour. Preheat the oven to 350°F

4. Using a sharp knife cut the dough into ¼" thick slices and place them 2" apart on parchment paper-lined baking sheets. 

5. Make a small indentation in the center of each cookie

6. Bake until edges are lightly golden, about 15-20 minutes. Let cool completely.

This batch serves about 4-dozen cookies

Photo by: Vegan 

 

 

Our Girl in Havana: The Antiques of Trinidad

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‘Antique’ doesn’t have quite the same significance in Cuba. There is an abundance of antiquity in this country for many reasons, but certainly years of economic hardship and trade constraints contributed to a make-do-and-mend culture that has kept everyday items in circulation longer than in other places. Fifty-year-old American Buicks are passed down through generations patched up with Chinese parts and perfectly preserved dinner sets from the 1800s are still in daily use.

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While the young of Cuba hanker after newer cars and faster electronics, for visitors it creates a unique aesthetic. The heavy Victorian furnishings stand somewhat staid and sober against the world of bright Caribbean colors and the constant stream of music. People call this country a time warp, but it’s unlike anything that’s come before.

The houses of ordinary people, surviving on a modest state-controlled income, may have a chandelier hanging above the dining room table that could be worth thousands of dollars back home. Not that it would do them much good - a ban on exporting antiques has preserved the country’s colonial stock from foreign pilfering with amazing efficiency.

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With the tourist industry in the country booming, naturally proprietors and restaurateurs are aware of the appeal of their abuela’s best china, and nowhere is this more apparent than Trinidad, known as the Museum City. Like the Disneyland of Cuba, this picture perfect spot plays up to all our Cuban daydreams. The rows of houses are brightly painted, the streets are cobbled and by night, as the sunsets behind the palms in the church square, musicians take to the steps of Casa de La Musica to play while visitors and locals dance.

After amassing a sugar cane fortune in the 18th century, the town grew fat with grand mansions and decorative squares. But when the trade collapsed, it was abandoned, and remained a sleepy outpost until UNESCO awarded it World Heritage Site status in 1988. This saved it from the decay seen on the streets of Havana, and you can now lose yourself in a historical fantasyland.

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The houses here are famous for their antique-laden rooms and there are more museums than anywhere else in Cuba. The former homes of the sugar-rich aristocracy have become shrines to the colonial heyday of the city, such as the impressive 18th century Palacio Brunet. Now housing the Museo Romántico, it was originally named after the daughter of Don Jose Mariano Borrell y Padron, one of the richest men in Trinidad responsible for much of the city’s finery. 

But shelves of antiques can bore even the most enthusiastic. Eating amidst them is another matter. Restaurant Sol Ananda (#45 Frente a la Plaza Mayor) is a veritable museum in itself. Run by the same people behind famous paladar Sol y Son, they spent five years restoring a 1850s mansion - once home to the governor of Trinidad, I believe - to its former glory and packed it full of original European antiques. Eat at one of the two tables in the bedroom, and make believe this is your boudoir. They curated the entire building with incredible attention to detail down to the 1920s shoes stacked on the shelves of the wardrobe.

Another restaurant harking back to the city's illustrious past, Museo 1514 (#515 Simon Bolivar), will make you regret not packing your long gloves or top hat. The long dining table in the courtyard is especially atmospheric, and every place is laid to perfection.

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But all of this can, at times, feel like a flight of fancy. A whimsy far removed from reality. As travelers we want to be part of the beating heart of any city we explore. So, go sit on the stone steps leading up to Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad on Plaza Mayor in a fading sunbeam; as the sky is slowly stained red, people will gather around you; a few musicians will start to play; and then the dancing will begin and will continue late into the night. This happens night after night, and has happened in one guise or another for as long as people can remember.

 

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on twitter @tylerwrites

 

Live from Cuba: Why Pinar del Río Rules

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Conner Gorry

Cuba is a place that holds equity in all matters of high esteem and strives to maintain that equity, so playing favorites is a dicey endeavor at best. Furthermore, picking a preferred province is a bit like naming your favorite child since each Cuban province, like every child, has its wonderful, inspiring attributes engendering awe and admiration. Still, I’m going out on a limb to say Pinar del Río is my favorite province.

 

Already I can hear the hoots and howls from fans and residents of the other 15 Cuban provinces. What about the stellar beaches and incomparable annual cultural extravaganza Romerías de Mayo in Holguín, they’ll say, or the fascinating roots of the Revolution, sown in the heroic city and province of Santiago de Cuba? Fans of the Isla de Juventud (a special municipality, rather than a province) will likewise stump for their favorite place, citing its archetypical Cuban hospitality and the Presidio Modelo (a must see for any Cuban history buff).

 

Valid arguments all, but traveling is often delimited by time and money considerations, which forces us to rely on individual preferences when picking a People-to-People program. So that you may be better informed about the options of where to go and what to do, I offer the top reasons to visit Pinar del Río, Cuba’s westernmost province.

 

Los PinareñosThe butt of jokes by Cubans everywhere, (former Minister of Culture Abel Prieto, a Piñareno himself, has even written a book incorporating many), folks from Pinar del Río are generally down-to-earth, generous, hardworking and hospitable. On any visit to Pinar del Río, the people you meet will be a highlight. Plus, they make a mean spit-roasted pig.

 

The Food & Smoke – That spit-roasted pig? It will be accompanied by heaping servings of congrís (Cuba’s traditional black or red bean and rice mix), yucca with an extraordinary sour orange/garlic sauce known as mojo, and a harvest-fresh salad. If you’re deep in the campo, the meal will likely come from the back yard. Cuba’s finest tobacco, hand-rolled into the world’s most prized cigars, comes from the Vuelta Abajo area of the province around San Juan y Martínez– many fincas, as tobacco farms are called, can be toured and the wares sampled. A hand-rolled Pinar cigar makes a perfect finish to a traditional meal of puerco asado.

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Valle de Viñales – Designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1999, the valley of Viñales is one of Cuba’s most captivating landscapes. A series of verdant valleys dotted with distinctive pincushion hills known as mogotes, nature buffs will delight in the beautiful scenery and other outdoor activities here. The view of the valley is best taken with a cocktail at the Hotel los Jazmines. The quaint town of Viñales is an attraction in and of itself.

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Puerto Esperanza– Once the secret escape for off-the-beaten track adventurers and cyclists, today Puerto Esperanza is gaining popularity as a laid back destination to sample ‘authentic’ Cuba. A traditional fishing village, the meals you’ll eat here may be the best of your trip.

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Conner Gorry is Senior Editor at MEDICC Review and author of the Havana Good Time app, available for iPhone/Pad and Android. She blogs at Here is Havana and has two Cuba stories in the anthology Best Travel Writing 2012

 

Photos by Robin Thom and Conner Gorry

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