Insight Cuba caught up with Shabnam Samoohi, an Insight Cuba tour leader that also runs DirectfromCuba.com, an organization dedicated to fostering educational exchange between Cuba and the USA, with an emphasis on music and dance. In this interview, she discusses her passion for Cuban music and dance and why Cuba is vibrant and alive like no other country in the world.

Insight Cuba: Who is Shabnam? 

Shabnam Samoohi: I’m an Insight Cuba tour leader and director of Direct from Cuba. It was through the educational program, Semester at Sea, in 1999 that I first traveled to Havana, Cuba. I was so moved by my experiences there that I returned to New York and began studying Cuban music and dance. It was my passion for it that led me to establish Direct from Cuba, an organization where I represent and arrange concerts and programs for various Cuban musicians. At first, those performers were Cuban musicians who had left Cuba and relocated to the USA. Once visas were granted to Cuban bands in 2010, Direct from Cuba organized concerts with Cuban musicians who still lived in Cuba as well.

What propelled you to become a tour leader for Insight Cuba? 

It was a deep love of Cuban culture. I fell in love with Cuba in 1999 and that love has only grown exponentially since then. As a tour leader, I am able to guide passengers and watch them fall in love with Cuba the same way I did. 

Why Insight Cuba?

An employee at Insight Cuba asked me to put together a compilation for Cuban music for a promotional CD that Insight Cuba would then send to prospective travelers with their brochure.  She also thought I would make a great tour leader. I put the CD together and then decided to ask for an interview for a tour leader position.  

Favorite Insight Cuba tours that you led?  

It has to be the Jazz in Havana tour. I love it because it really allows me to put my knowledge of Cuban music to use, and at times depending on availability, travelers are then able to see the musicians I represent, which is always a very special experience for me.  

You've received countless positive comments from the Insight Cuba clients. What is your greatest reward?

I would have to say, once again, that the best reward is when I watch clients fall in love with Cuba for the first time. I also love it when they share their pictures after a trip. Once a client sent me a photo calendar with unbelievable photos of our trip. It was from my first trip with Insight Cuba and it really touched me deeply. 

What do you like most about Cuba? 

The people, the music and the dancing. I have traveled the world and have never seen another country that is so vibrant and alive. The people also have an unparalleled respect for the arts, which gave me my passion for the arts. 

Best and worst day as a tour leader in Cuba?

It's tough to say which was the best day. There were so many amazing ones. One particular story that comes to mind is when a 19-year-old passenger went to the Malecón - I urge everyone to do that – and he ended up playing guitar with the locals. He wants to be a musician and he was so excited about it. My worst day was when I had a very sick passenger, she had a pre-existing condition and luckily everything ended up ok and she was able to come home with us. 

Advice to prospective travelers to Cuba? 

Be open and flexible and be ready to have an amazing time. Leave all of your preconceptions behind, as Cuba will pleasantly surprise you!

***

Shabnam’s organization, Direct from Cuba, has successfully hosted, managed, promoted, marketed, and assisted over 50 Cuban musical, cultural and private events in the USA, at prestigious locations such as Carnegie Hall, Jackie Gleason Theater, Joe’s Pub and the Museum of Modern Art. The artists have ranged from a single Cuban-American singer who lives in the USA, to Cuban musical groups with over 22 members that required travel to the USA.

In addition, Direct from Cuba has also coordinated volunteer events, including a performance by Cuban pianist Jorge Luis Pacheco and the NYC Elementary School. A documentary for singer Pepito Gomez by Alberto Gonzalez is in the works, whose previous films were featured at New York’s Havana Film Festival. 

Interview prepared by Monica Suma. You can follow her on Twitter @MonicaSuma. 

Underground restaurants may be a relatively new trend in the United States, but they’ve been happening for decades in Cuba. Paladares or ‘home restaurants’ have long served the best food in the country, and are now at the heart of Cuba’s newly invigorated dining scene.

Paladares didn’t always exist, and for several years the culinary culture of Cuba was arguably in decline. In 1968, the state assumed governance of all restaurants throughout the nation and many of these were a success. However, in the hard years leading up to the collapse of the Soviet Union – Cuba’s main economic partner following the Revolution – and during the Special Period that followed, the country suffered from serious food shortages. Naturally, the priority was to meet the ‘basic needs’ of the people, not keep state-run eateries in good stock. Equally, for the average Cuban, dining out was a luxury they could no longer afford, and many of these restaurants closed down. Despite the rich culinary heritage of Cuba, the country gained a reputation amongst outsiders for poor cuisine.  

It wasn’t until the mid-nineties that this situation began to improve. In 1993, amongst a wave of other reforms intended to boost the economy, Fidel Castro announced the legalization of more than 100 self-employed positions, such as in the food sector. Some paladares had probably existed illegally before, but now they were legitimate they could be taxed and regulated. In the mid-nineties, the first wave of official paladares opened up – small family-run operations with a government license to sell food to Cubans and tourists alike. Hosted in family homes, with the law stipulating that staff must be relatives, each paladar offered a completely unique dining experience: the wedding photos on the wall; the abuela rocking in a chair in the corner; and the kids occasionally peeking in from the kitchen or helping to wait tables. From tourists previously only seeing a state-sanctioned view of the food culture of Cuba, these paladares gave an insight into real Cuban life. More importantly, it offered Cubans the chance to supplement their state salary and run their own business legally and with a degree of independence. 

Most paladares were simple mom-and-pop affairs serving up delicious comida cubana while some were more adventurous or glamorous. However, they were subject to certain conditions such as a limit on the number of seats and ban on ‘luxury’ foods such as beef and shellfish, reserved for the ongoing state-run operations.

It wasn’t until Raul Castro’s 2011 reform program again loosened the laws on private enterprise that the restaurant scene could truly flourish. In the months that followed more than a quarter of a million entrepreneurs applied for licenses, an estimated 22% of which were in the service industry. By 2012, new ventures were opening up every week, and today, there are close to 2,000 private restaurants.

Paladares have come a long way from simple family-run operations. Restaurants like Le Chansonnier with its high design interiors and chic French-inspired cuisine could compete with its Parisian counterparts and Casa Miglis could well be the only Cuban-Swedish fusion restaurant in the world. In the last few years, the dining scene has completely revolutionized to rival its capital city counterparts without losing its distinctly Cuban foundations. Better still, it is largely Cubans benefitting economically from these improvements, despite ongoing issues over taxation and bureaucracy. But there is further change on the horizon, as more than 20 state restaurants are about to become employee-run cooperatives, as part of a pilot experiment, with hundreds more to follow if successful. The pace of change in Cuba, in the dining scene and beyond, doesn’t look set to slow for some time.

Next, I will look into my favorite Havana paladares.

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on Twitter @tylerwrites. 

Prepare your appetites, for we will go in depth unveiling the best places to dine in Cuba, in a new series of monthly reviews of paladares. First stop: Havana!

Photo by Tximitxurri

For those in the mood of a hearty meal to warm up your long winter nights, you can't go wrong with the Cuban chillindron de cordero, also known as a traditional recipe of Cuban stewed lamb. 

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 1 ½ - 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours and 10 minutes

Yields: 6 servings

Ingredients:

• 2 ½ lbs. Lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
• Salt & pepper, to taste
• Juice of 2 limes
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 6 slices of bacon, diced
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp. paprika
• 1 tsp. cumin
• ¼ tsp. oregano
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 4 tomatoes, chopped
• 1 green pepper, thinly sliced
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• flour, for dredging
• 1 cup dry white wine

Directions:

1. Marinate lamb with lime juice, salt, pepper and refrigerate for at least two hours
2. Over medium fire, heat the olive oil in a deep pan. Pat lamb chunks dry and roll in flour. Brown the lamb on all sides. Set aside in a plate.
3. In the same pot, over medium fire, brown the bacon; add onion, green pepper and garlic. Lower fire and cook until tender.
4. Stir in the lamb chunks, tomatoes, wine, oregano, cumin, paprika and bay leaf.
5. Cover and let simmer until the lamb is tender, about 1½ hours. Remove bay leaf and serve.

Best served with: white rice.

Enjoy!

Photo by cinematographer Ben Richardson

Insight Cuba caught up with Darcie Goldberg, Executive Director of the Chester County Art Association, following the organization’s two consecutive trips with Insight Cuba. The non-profit, cultural institution, founded in 1931, provides art education and exhibition space for artists of all ages and aspirations.

Insight Cuba: Why Insight Cuba? What is it about our organization that enticed you to book not one, but two custom tours?

Darcie Goldberg: I looked at different companies and non-profit groups, and talked to many of them, but I found a real comfort with Insight Cuba. I felt that they answered my questions and were the go-to company for Cuba. That was the beginning of our journey with Insight Cuba.

Our first trip was beyond expectations. We couldn’t have asked for anything better. Everyone fell in love with Cuba and the guides. We loved Shabnam Samoohi and Patricia Morgovsky. They were terrific! Having had such a great experience the first time around, we went back to Insight for a second custom tour. 

Why did the Chester County Arts Association decide to go to Cuba in the first place?

Because of the arts. Cuba is so unexplored, and there are so many layers.

What I noticed when I got there were the people. They didn’t have all the communications, the luxuries or the technology, but they had the arts. The arts are a piece of them, of every single person I met. The arts have helped them survive, grow and expand on a different level than most people. They have passion, and it comes through. It’s incredible to see a dance performance that could have taken place at The Metropolitan. It’s that passion that kept coming through at every meeting we had.

What does the organization hope to achieve through these trips?

We hope to bridge some gaps. We left lots of art supplies everywhere we went. That was part of our goal for the Chester County Arts Association: to reach out to the artists, to help them. We wanted to open up communication on a different level, but also to show our artists and patrons this passion and love for the arts, and how that flourishes. Despite all the economic troubles and all that isolation, the arts are what kept them moving.

When I went around the bus and asked everyone why they were there, it was interesting that a lot of the answers were “inspiration,” “I want to learn,” “I want to see Cuba before it opens up,” “I want to see the arts on a level much different than ours.” Everyone agreed.

Art is a piece of their soul. And it really puts things in perspective: Do I need this? No, I really don’t. All you need is passion and love, and they have it.

Photo by Darcie Goldberg

I’ve traveled extensively, and I’ve never seen a culture so engaged in their arts. Never! I loved going to this school where the kids who were dancing were so proud of what they were doing.   

One of my best experiences there was the Havana Jazz Festival. I looked around the auditorium and saw probably about 5,000 people, and when the performer walked on stage, you could hear a pin drop. I looked over, as I was sitting in the middle of the balcony, and it was full of teenagers and young people who knew every musician. Where we’re from, we’re lucky to see anyone under 40. That’s why I can’t wait to get back there. It’s not just about seeing; it’s a feeling you get when you’re there. 

Some of your members went on two of our Insight Cuba tours. What brought them back?

Out of thirteen, seven returned. I think it’s because Insight Cuba included so many unique experiences that we don’t get here in the United States. For instance, we went into this one artist’s house and he had a long table set up for sale. When we went back, that same table was on the patio, where we he had set up lunch for us. It was so special!

Photos by Darcie Goldberg

I think Insight Cuba has really done its homework. As a group leader, I loved working with John, Alison and Jessica. They really listened to what we wanted, and did a lot of planning to make it happen.  To have that rapport and the communication between Insight and the organization was really important.

 Here is what some of the CCAA travelers had to say:

“I traveled to Cuba with CCAA in 2013 and 2014 and cannot say enough about how wonderful, yet different, both trips were. Traveling with a tour group has never been my style or preferred way to travel, so I was amazed at how informative, fun and easy it was; so fun that I went two years in a row. The Insight Cuba tour provided many opportunities for us to meet and interact with numerous artists, musicians and local citizens, who gave a well-rounded and informative experience with the people of Cuba. It was inspirational! The island of Cuba is also incredibly beautiful and photogenic. Photo ops abound. I was also impressed with how pristine the environment was in rural areas and how generous and warm the people were. My fondest memory will always be the fun times in Havana with The Hemingway Girls and our love affair with 7 Year Havana Club!”

 Photo and quote by Ellie Byrom-Haley 

“Why did I decide to travel to Cuba twice in one year?  My fear was that I would be disappointed because I had such high expectations after the first trip.  The second trip, however, wowed me.  Seeing Havana without seeing different parts of the rest of Cuba is akin to seeing New York City and never seeing any other parts of the U.S.

Here's what impressed me:

 The beauteous decay.  Yes, the buildings are decaying, but the bones are still beautiful.

 The vibrant colors. When I came back to Pennsylvania, I was shocked by the monotony of our colors. 

The music everywhere

The Cuban “dance gene.”  Surely they're born with it. Even little girls have "the moves.”

Watching kids be kids; playing like kids, not transfixed by their smartphones

Being transported back in time: oxen pulling carts, vintage cars, horses for transportation 

The simplicity, yet richness, of it all

I'd go back again in a heartbeat.”

Photos and quote by Yvonne McFadden 

What was most intriguing—the arts and culture of Old Havana or the Afro-Cuban culture in Santiago de Cuba?

Most intriguing was to see all the layers of the culture and the arts. The arts have kept them going for so long, it’s their passion, hope and inspiration for the future.

Our guide gave us a great history of Cuba. In Havana, we loved the city, the arts, the museums. There was so much to see. But going back the second time and traveling to Santiago and taking the bus to Baracoa really gave us a different feel of Cuba: the vastness of it and how different it all is. To just see Havana and not other cities really gives you a different impression.

Riding in coco taxisRiding in Cuban classic cars

Photos by Darcie Goldberg

For instance, in Havana you see the classic cars and the coco taxis, but when you go into Baracoa, you see the horses and different transportation modes they rely on, and they are so productive with what they have.

Whenever I would go out to take photographs, either early in the morning or late at night, I found Havana one of the safest, cleanest cities I’ve ever been in. Their infrastructure is certainly not what it used to be in the sense of having the resources to rebuild and repair, but it’s still a clean city. 

The Afro-Cuban culture is the one that really showcases their history and heritage. You could see it in the dance, in the rumba and salsa; it’s so much a part of them. So, not sure if I could say one was more intriguing than the other—they were totally different—but they were all a confirmation of the different layers of Cuba.

What were the groups’ favorite encounters?

During our first trip, we had a private concert—a world-renowned trumpet player, in a family residence—and thirteen of us sitting there. We listened to the concert for an hour and a half. He had cello players, a base, a drum, keyboards, some of his family and friends, and then us.

He brought us to tears. We were really moved. And then he brought in a beautiful girl in a yellow dress. She had another performance that night and could only stay for a short time. She was phenomenal. Later that night, we went to the Havana Jazz Festival and saw onstage, in front of 5,000 people, that same girl in a yellow dress. That showed us the level of what we had available to us.

Video by cinematographer Ben Richardson

On our second trip, in Baracoa, we went into the studio of a young artist who had minimal supplies. We also went to an indigenous group, outside of Baracoa, that was trying to bring forth their dance and culture. That was a unique experience, and everyone loved it. They were preserving and passing down their arts and stories from generation to generation. The arts tell a story, and they were passing down their stories.

What does the future hold? What are you planning for your third custom tour with Insight Cuba?

I’ve been talking to John Holahan, the Custom Group Travel Manager, about a third custom group, at a different time of year. I want to see kids swimming off the Malecon in Havana. We were thinking of going in June, 2014, and visiting Trinidad.

***

Darcie Goldberg is a professional photographer with over 30 years experience.  Her extensive travels and strong award winning black & white photographs have been featured in solo exhibitions, as well as in public and private collections. After several years of freelance work and teaching B&W film and darkroom, she completed her Masters in the Creative Arts at Hahnemann University, Philadelphia. She has been the Executive Director of the Chester County Art Association for 17 years and recently completed a lateral move to Facility Development Director where she will lead CCAA’s Capital Campaign for renovations.  

She continues to pursue her photography through documentation of her travels and exhibitions to exotic locations. She specializes in B&W handmade silver gelatin prints.  Inspired by a recent trip to Cuba, she plans to pursue documentary and street photography with digital images and reproductions, as well as medium format film and photographs. She lives in West Chester, Pennsylvania.

Interview prepared by Monica Suma. You can follow her on Twitter @MonicaSuma. 

I always try to immerse myself in the stories and sagas of a country before I travel, so when I’m lost in the beauty of it all, I have something to guide me. There is no more immersive way to contextualize yourself than through the fiction of that country. Cuba is ripe with stories; it has a history so utterly unique and dramatic, that many people both Cuban and otherwise have brought the past to life in stunning and compelling ways.

Here is a list of some of my personal favorites and some classics to get your mind primed for la vida loca that is Cuba. 

La Edad de Oro / The Golden Age, José Martí  (1889)

Freedom fighter, visionary, scribe and national hero, Jose Marti personifies the Cuban spirit. Apostle of Cuban independence, he is revered throughout Latin America for his fearless battle against injustice. This book is comprised of the four issues of a children’s magazine he published in 1889 while living in New York. Dedicated to the children of America, the beautiful poems and narratives are rich with his teachings and wisdom. I read this is to improve my Spanish, and it was a wonderful way to learn.

Our Man in Havana, Graham Greene (1958)

Naturally, my namesake. I read this after returning from my first trip to Havana and I wished I had read it before. The frenetic madness of that city is fantastically conveyed, even if it describes pre-revolutionary Cuba. A black comedy, it tells the absurd story of James Wormold, a vacuum cleaner salesman, who gets caught up in working for the British secret service.

Before Night Falls, Reinaldo Arenas (1992)

I saw the movie first, which has exceptional performances from both Javier Bardem and Johnny Depp (2000), but it is based on the shocking memoir of visionary Cuban writer Reinaldo Arenas. Conveying the sheer force of the human urge to create, it charts Arenas’ stunning odyssey from poverty-stricken childhood, through his struggles as a writer and subsequent imprisonment for homosexuality, ending with his flight to America. This was a New York Times Best Book of 1993.

Dirty Havana Trilogy, Pedro Juan Gutiérrez (2000)

Banned in Cuba, yet famed across the Spanish-speaking world, this gritty in-your-face account takes life in Havana during the Special Period as its theme, portraying a world of poverty, violence and racism at cutthroat pace. Semiautobiographical, the story follows former journalist Pedro Juan and the lengths he must go to in order to survive.

The Motorcycle Diaries, Ernesto Guevara (1995)

You’ll see copies of this in many a young traveler’s hand throughout Central/South America, now immortalized on screen in the popular movie starring Gael Garcia Bernal. This is 23-year-old Che Guevara’s lively travel diaries recording his journey across the continent with his best friend Alberto Granado. If you’re interested in the development of that iconic character, the formation of his identity and political beliefs beyond the myth, then this book is vital. It also offers a snapshot of the chronic poverty of 1950s Latin America. 

Three Trapped Tigers, Guillermo Cabrera Infante (1965)

Originally a member of Castro’s entourage, Infante’s relationship with the regime soured until his eventual exile. Three Trapped Tigers sprung from those bitter experiences becoming a rich and witty, at times sarcastic, examination of 1950s Havana. Often considered the Cuban Ulysses, full of word play and puns, it is said no translation can do it full justice, but that doesn’t stop it from being utterly mesmerizing.

Cecilia Valdés, Cirilo Villaverde (1839-1882)

A romantic study of 19th century Cuban society and customs, it is also considered one of the most beautiful and tragic love stories in Cuban literature, and its protagonist has become a mythic icon in her own right. Following the life of young and beautiful light skinned mulatta Cecilia Valdés, the story exposes complex problems of race relations in the country and the horrors of the African slave trade.

The Old Man and the Sea, Ernest Hemingway (1952)

It seems every other bar in Havana celebrates the fact Hemingway drank there, but between daiquiris, he managed to pen The Old Man and the Sea, which won him the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction and renewed his international celebrity. This stunning, melancholic parable tells the story of old Cuban fisherman Santiago and his struggle to bring in a giant Marlin. 

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on Twitter @tylerwrites. 

Photo via Cuba Hora

This delicious Cuban dish is not only traditional for Cuba, but in fact one well loved by many! Used as a main course and filler for empanadas and papas rellenas, its duality is much appreciated by cooks, bellies and taste buds! You might also recognize it, as it is the Cuban version of the beef hash. 

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yields: 6-8 servings

Ingredients:

• 2 lbs. ground beef
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 1 green pepper, chopped
• 1 can (8oz) tomato sauce
• ½ cup pimento-stuffed green olives
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tbsps. olive oil
• 1 small box raisins
• 1 tsp. cumin
• 1 tsp. oregano
• Salt & pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. In a large pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions, green pepper and garlic. Add the ground beef and cook until brown. Be sure to break up any large chunks of beef and drain any excess oil/fat
2. Add the tomato sauce, cumin, oregano and olives. Lower the heat, cover and let simmer for 20 minutes
3. Add raisins, salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer for five minutes and serve immediately

Best served with: White rice, tostones, black beans and rice.

 Enjoy!

Insight Cuba caught up with David and Shelley Kuczkir, a quirky couple from Charleston, South Carolina, following their trip to Havana with Insight Cuba. After having set their mark on the sunny climates of Australia, New Zealand, the Caribbean islands and Hawaii, they decided it was time to take a leap of faith and visit Cuba. 

Insight Cuba: Who are David & Shelley?

David Kuczkir: We are spur of the moment, enthusiastic world travelers who LOVE new experiences and making new and lasting friendships. Shelley is a wealth manager and I’m a CPA who practices ardently at being the next Great American Novelist. Shelley and I have been itching to go to Cuba for years, and it was our wish to go before the embargo ends. 

Shelley’s background is in theatre and I couldn't be quirkier.  Before our trip we thought it would be fun to roll play pretending to be Hemingway and Gellhorn for a whole weekend.  We were having so much fun that the lines got blurred more than once.          

Why Insight Cuba?

When we were planning our Cuba trip there was only a handful of licensed tour companies offering people-to-people tours. We picked Insight Cuba because they have a great track record, and the staff was friendly and eager to answer the ton of questions we threw at them.  They also were the only ones offering the Weekend in Havana.  Mind you, we traveled last June, tumultuous times in terms of US and Cuban relations, so getting our feet wet was right up our alley. 

One of the most memorable parts of our trip, for me anyway, was meeting a renowned Cuban scholar who talked to the group for an hour on just U.S.-Cuban policy.  To hear Cuba’s side for once, and to hear it from such a respected author and expert on the subject, certainly added a new perspective.  He reminded me that there are always two sides to every story and what you read and see on the news is not always the truth.   

Why Cuba and what did you like most while there?

Cubans are Resolvers. I read that somewhere once. I never fully understood what that meant until I saw Cuba with my own eyes. Nothing goes to waste in Cuba. I remember the bus ride from the airport to Havana vividly because at one point I remember thinking, I want to go home.  Where was all the beautiful architecture and the Malecón, the five mile expanse of seawall, and the 1950s American cars? The ride was our induction to the fact that we were now in a third-world country. 

As we approached Old Havana both the seascape and the cityscape changed dramatically, and for the better.  The architecture was absolutely stunning.  We couldn’t take our eyes off all the Colonial and Baroque and Neo Classical buildings all around the beautiful seaport city.  And classic Americana was everywhere on the streets too.  Just as I had pictured it would be.  It all gave us a sense of home and quick lesson on how deep and intertwined the connection is between U.S. and Cuba.     

We’ve been all over the globe and aside from Australians, Cubans are the friendliest people we’ve met.  The elders, those who were around before the Revolution, hugged and kissed us and told us they “love America.” 

The food exceeded our expectations.  After five o’clock you are off the government’s clock.  We explored every nook and cranny in Havana until our feet ached.  Every night we ate at paladares, privately owned restaurants operated in peoples’ homes.  The food is worthy of five stars.  We devoured tasty dishes like grilled octopus and papaya lasagna. 

For the record we are not cigar smokers.  Fortunately for us, Cuba produces the best coffee and rum in the world.  You better believe we indulged.

Advice to prospective travelers to Cuba? 

Go before the embargo is lifted.  And eat at La Gaurida. 

Every new day brings the US and Cuba closer to normalized relations.  For the Cuban people, the Resolvers, I hope tomorrow is that day.     

Interview prepared by Monica Suma. You can follow her on Twitter @MonicaSuma. 

I didn’t go to Caibarién on purpose. My bus pulled into Remedios where I had planned to disembark. But when I looked out the window at yet another gorgeous colonial town: pristine multi-coloured houses, sandy streets, wide-open plazas and the scent of flowers in the air - it left me dead. After months of postcard perfect colonial vistas, I had become inured to it. So I simply stayed on the bus, a sense of adventure in not knowing where it would take me to next.

It terminated in Caibarién, somewhere I hadn’t heard mentioned on the traveler trail. It had once been a thriving fishing port but had fallen into disrepair, becoming a comatose place, decrepit, frail and gloriously offbeat. Like the one-time plaything of a colonial princess, who had grown tired of her pastel-hued toy town and left it for the grander thrills of neighbouring Remedios. The piers had sunk sadly into the sea and the mills no longer turned sugar to riches. On many of the streets, just the skeletons of houses remain with bones half broken, or else the stone sags like an old man’s tired paunch, and the building stays upright from the force of history alone.

When I got off the bus, I wasn’t hounded by people waving pictures of their casas with promises of Continental breakfasts, omelettes and aircon. Instead I was greeted with a series of curious but friendly nods, and directed by the shopkeeper to the wonderful El Carretero casa of Fernando and his wife, who looked after me like family. I was the only tourist. I didn’t see any other foreigners the entire time I spent in Caibarién. 

Forty kilometres east of Cayerias del Norte, you would think cash-strapped travelers would use this as a jump off point to explore the white sands of Cayo Santa Maria or Cayo las Brujas without having to pay the all-inclusive prices for the hotels there, but somehow, this is the place tourism forgot. Granted, the cayos are a drive away (accessible by a new causeway with toll payable), and there isn’t a great deal else by way of attractions: the museum of sugar industry with its sketchy history; a municipal museum celebrating Caibarién’s short lived glory days; a scrappy public beach; and the giant crab statue, which greets you as you arrive and leave.

But you don’t come to Caibarién for sightseeing. You come to experience a town that hasn’t been preened for your pleasure, an authenticity verging on the surreal. This is a world where horse and cart is still the most viable method of public transport, and the quiet is punctuated by the shout of ‘Cabello, cabello, cabello,’ and the clip clop of hooves. After 11am it’s almost impossible to buy a loaf of bread, with the shelves near empty, as a conscientious shopkeeper sweeps the sandy floor. Beyond open doorways families gather around TV sets watching illegally rigged cable while outside their chickens run amok. It feels trapped in a sticky time warp, as if the long lost sugar fortune had turned to treacle and now the days stretched beyond their allocated 24 hours into the far reaches of another time frame altogether. Perhaps that was why I loved this place so much; a combination of the sleepy serenity and the surreal made it feel a far superior escape from reality than any lazy beach idyll ever could.

Pictures courtesy of Tyler Wetherall

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on Twitter @tylerwrites. 

Visiting Cuba for the very first time is like none other travel experience. Here are my thoughts ahead of my inaugural trip to the Caribbean island, from the perspective of a Romanian-American. 

by Monica Suma

As a sassy five year old, I remember my determination in putting red beads together, one-by-one, on a long, thin thread, for a very well thought out gift for my mother. It had been a few months since she had been away on an extended trip abroad and I missed her terribly.

At the time, I was upset she hadn’t taken me with her. In reality, she was traveling to the United States for the first time, to visit her sister, which she hadn’t seen in eighteen years. It was 1990, in a former communist Romania that was suddenly breathing the sweet taste of freedom. For the first time in decades, Romanians were now allowed to travel to non-Soviet countries, granted you got the visa. In those early days, you were lucky if you received a visa for two weeks for yourself, let alone for other members of your family. It was the first time we found out the lady my mother was occasionally writing letters to was in fact our aunt, not just a friend, and that the “forbidden land” that was America all those years ago, was now a little bit closer.

This is how I imagine Cubans must feel, not having been able to travel to the US for so many decades, and vice versa, Americans not being able to enjoy the beauty of a land that is so close, yet so far away.

In my case, twenty some years later, both my parents and I can now travel anywhere in the world. As a citizen of the European Union, I could go to Cuba anytime; as a US citizen, not so much. It’s an interesting juxtaposition. And yet, I feel incredibly lucky to be able to live this experience, given my country’s tormented political past. Although I was too young to ever know, I understand what living in a fenced isolation must feel like, at least through my parents’ eyes. I also know what it means to take so many comforts of every day life - including what life is like in today’s Romania - for granted. I am now searching for that perfect balance. 

And so, what I am mostly looking for in Cuba is meeting its wonderful people. Having traveled so much already, and having interviewed plenty of people that have been there, I know for a fact that it will be a travel experience like none other. For Cubans don’t ever seem to give in to despair. I want to learn from them how to enjoy the simplest things in life, and I want to see the authentic smiles of children’ faces that are content and proud to dance to the beats of Cuban music. I want to spend hours with a guajiro to see what his every day life is and read from the creases on his face some of his country’s history.

I don’t like salsa, and I’m not much of a dancer. However, I know once there, gazing at the sunset on the Malecón, I will have an urge of succumbing to its beats. I want to steal its energy and its happy vibes.

As I close my eyes, I’m envisioning my sandals eagerly pounding the cobblestone pavements of an architecturally enrapturing Old Havana, swirling the pleats of my summery dress to a fine tune in Hemingway’s finca, sipping a divine mojito, listening to incredible jazz, and smiling at the sight of the brightest, liveliest colors I may ever get to see.

A transformative travel experience is upon me; take me to Cuba, I am ready. 

Written by Monica Suma. You can follow her on Twitter at @MonicaSuma. 

La Esperanza opened as a paladar in 1995, at the height of the Cuban Special Period.  “When we first opened, our day off was on Thursday because that was the day our neighborhood had its electricity cut during the energy crisis,” Hubert, the owner, told me while recalling the early days of the business.

In 19 years, La Esperanza has survived everything from soap shortages to brownouts, all while catering to diplomats, international celebrities, and the occasional heads of state. 

Walking into La Esperanza is a prerevolutionary transformation. The only objects in the house that postdate 1959 are the staff and the farm fresh ingredients.  Even the music is classic Cuban, recorded well before bearded rebels came down from the mountains. 

Hubert knows what makes his business successful. “We make it our mission to keep and preserve the ambiance of the quintessential paladar. When you come here you should feel like you are coming into a home, because that is what it is.”

Indeed, Hubert lives upstairs.  The house belonged to a friend so close as to be considered family, a woman for whom the restaurant is named, “La Esperanza.” 

“She lived here with her husband, who was the President of Sales for Polar Beer, a company founded in 1935, four years before the house was built in 1939,” Hubert volunteers the story with speed and pride.  With little pause, he leads me to a china cabinet full of memorabilia.  Behind a lithographed Polar Beer glass is beer of the same name, bottled more than 60 years ago. Everything in the house has meaning.

Compared to the surroundings, the menu is simpler, and like the house, there is a story behind everything.

“We have Thai chicken but we had to invent it in our own way.  We are not from Thailand, I can´t even buy Thai mangoes,” Hubert tells me while explaining one of his most enduring and best-known dishes.  “When we opened, I would ride a bicycle around Havana getting the ingredients I needed.”

Appetizers such as soft gouda served between two slices of grilled eggplant and main courses such as Pollo Luna de miel, or honeymoon chicken, served in a honey based sauce and flameado in Cuban rum are unique offerings in this part of the Caribbean. 

While reading the menu, I can see a group of guests chatting and enjoying cocktails in the living room, complete with a sofa and comfy chairs.  Also within view is the main dining room hosting the owners of the cars, with diplomatic license plates parked out front. 

A statue of Saint Barbara watches over everything. 

I look to her fixed gaze for guidance on choosing what to order, but my vision is distracted by the collection of vintage cocktail shakers.  Perhaps a drink would be of some assistance.

A glass of red wine later and I am digging into half a chicken (Thai style with Cuban mango sauce), steamed vegetables, fluffy white rice and black beans. 

I keep talking to Hubert between bites and swallows, but get distracted again by some really good-looking key lime pie being carried to the diplomats’ table.  I order a slice before I´m too full to decide not to. 

La Esperanza is located on 16^th Street between 1^st and 3^rd, just a block from the 16^th street beach in the Playa neighborhood of La Havana.  Open for dinner every night, with executive lunches, as well as cooking classes. 

Reservations at (+53) 202 4261 or paladar.laesperanza@gmail.com.

Written by Graham Sowa.

“Havana captures the imagination like no other,” says travel website TripAdvisor.com. “Faded glamour meets careful colonial-era reconstruction with a backdrop of irresistible color.”

This year, TripAdvisor.com’s users rated Havana their number-one on-the-rise travel destination. Hardly surprising, given Cuba’s temperate weather, proximity to the U.S. and the fact that few Americans have set foot in the country over the past fifty years. For many, curiosity about our near neighbor contributes to the mystique of this once-forbidden land.

“After 50 years of American travel restrictions to Cuba as part of the U.S. embargo against the country, it’s no surprise that travelers are flocking to Cuba to finally see it for themselves”, says Tom Popper, president of Insight Cuba, the leading provider of licensed people-to-people travel to Cuba. (Americans who wish to visit Cuba must do so with a licensed company providing authorized educational programming, known as “people-to-people travel,” to comply with U.S. government regulations.)

What can visitors expect from Cuba? Welcoming people and a cultural fabric woven together by music, art, and Cuban ingenuity. They can see Cuba’s famous pre-1959 automobiles, Spanish colonial architecture, and streets “unchanged by time.”

“On an Insight Cuba program, travelers gain unique access to people and places the average tourist rarely sees,” says Alison Coelho, director of Cuba operations for longstanding Cuba travel provider Insight Cuba.

Havana edged out several perennially popular destinations, including Costa Rica, Jerusalem, Katmandu and Belize. About 98,000 Americans of non-Cuban descent visited Cuba in 2012. That’s more than twice the number of visitors the island nation welcomed in 2007. Relaxed travel restrictions deserve some of the credit. The rest may belong to Cuba’s “cultural renaissance.”

“Whether you prefer to hot-step it in a salsa club, tour a cigar factory or sip a mojito in one of Hemingway’s haunts, energy buzzes in and around Havana’s historic city centre, a designated Unesco World Heritage Site,” says TripAdvisor.

In TripAdvisor’s most-recent survey, users named these their top-10 on-the-rise foreign travel destinations:

1. Havana, Cuba

2. La Fortuna de San Carlos, Costa Rica

3. Kathmandu, Nepal

4. Jerusalem, Israel

5. Cusco, Peru

6. Ambergris Caye, Belize

7. Sapporo, Japan

8. Hanoi, Vietnam

9. Corralejo, Spain

10. Fortaleza, Brazil

By Chelsea Lowe

Every evening, in an otherwise nondescript Vedado home, behind the Hotel Melia Cohiba, a gathering of nations takes place at the restaurant Atelier.

The night I went there, the French table was peppering the waiter with questions about the blue cheese sauce, the Germans were dressed as if they had walked from the pool, a Canadian couple was being romantic, and a table full of my fellow Americans was going on about tomorrow´s schedule. 

It took the sea breeze to remind me that I was only a couple of blocks away from the Atlantic Ocean, in Cuba, and it was time to look at the menu. 

Atelier bills itself as “cocina de autor,” which means that it takes culinary license with dishes that are constructed to compete on the international food scene.    

How else could you explain the presence of starters such as asparagus au gratin or salmon and eggplant rolls?  That vegetable and fish are not even from the Caribbean, much less easy to import to Cuba.  Yet Atelier has covered the asparagus with a béchamel base sauce that left the demanding French table quite pleased.  Maybe the head chef, who trained in Paris, has something to do with it … but can he grill a steak to please a Texan?

Usually, I steer clear of beef in Cuba, mainly because my standards are too high and I don´t like being disappointed.  Cubans don´t eat beef because its price is prohibitive even when it can be found. 

But the menu at Atelier was challenging me with two words: Filet Mignon.  That was it, no other fancy adjectives or promises to “cook to perfection” that ring hollow at other Havana eateries.  Filet Mignon. 

I answered the challenge with a two words of my own when I told the waiter I wanted the steak cooked “vuelta vuelta,” or as we know it in the Lone Star State, “blue.” 

Atelier invites an eye for detail.  Soft glow from incandescent bulbs (bet you never thought you would see another one of those!) allows clear visibility beyond the light fixtures, to the intricate woodwork supporting the roof. 

Similarly preserved are the pre-revolutionary windows and doors that frame antique views of Vedado.  Look closely at the walls hung with contemporary Cuban art and you might conclude the house was constructed by a military architect; thick enough to withstand a naval shelling. 

Step onto the expansive terrace and take in a clear view of the professional kitchen, designed by cook turned owner and Cuban entrepreneur of growing international fame, Niuris Martinez.

That sea breeze interrupted again and brought attention to detail from my eyes to my nose.  Wafting grilled beef told me it was time for the main event.

The filet was plated alone, surrounded by dribblings of various sauces I could indulge in, or not (I did).  Inspection of my first cut in told me the chef had the right high temperature fire to singe the outside but leave the inside red all the way through.  When I closed my eyes and took that first bite I swear I heard “The Yellow Rose of Texas” playing somewhere nearby. 

When I snapped back to reality, I saw the waiter had left the two side dishes flanking my main course: rice and beans.  One thing is certain about Cuba:  it doesn´t let you stay away for long.

El Atelier is located in the Vedado neighborhood of La Havana on Calle 5, No. 511, right behind the Hotel Melia Cohiba and close enough to the ocean to get a good sea breeze.  

Written by Graham Sowa.

“Our passengers return home from Cuba constantly commenting on the changes taking place in Cuba and how amazing it is to be able to see Cuba during its transformation,” says Tom Popper, president of Insight Cuba. Popper who often travels to Cuba with his daughter during the summer continues, “Summer is my favorite time to visit Cuba. Like many tropical climates, Cuba has fewer tourists during the summer, which translates into more in-depth experiences for our guests, less crowded places, and a more ‘tranquilo’ atmosphere.” 

As always, Insight Cuba guests can choose from a selection of six exclusive tours, allowing them to travel when they want, for as long as they want, and at the price they want. The Summer Promotion includes:

Undiscovered Cuba (13 Days / 12 Nights)

Experience Insight Cuba’s longest program for travelers with a real passion for exploration and a desire to leave no stone unturned. This exclusive tour provides coast-to-coast views of the island where most other U.S. tour operators have yet to visit. Save $300 for person on departures: Jun 15-27 and Sep 21-Oct 3.  

Classic Cuba (9 Days / 8 Nights)

Beyond the capital, travel back in time to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Trinidad, one of Latin America’s best-preserved colonial towns. Stops along the way include Cienfuegos, the “Pearl of the South,” and Playa Larga. Save $300 per person on departures: Jun 30-Jul 8, Aug 25-Sep 2, and Sep 20-28.

Scenic Cuba (9 Days / 8 Nights)

Guests experience city and country life on this journey to one of Cuba's most picturesque areas, the eastern province of Pinar del Río, which is known for its scenic national parks, expansive tobacco fields and friendly peasant farmers. Save $300 per person on departures: July 18-26 and Sep 12-20. 

Vintage Cuba (7 Days / 6 Nights)

Travelers will go back in time on Insight Cuba’s newest a journey through the country’s colorful, complex history. This hand-crafted program commences in the charming colonial town of Santa Clara, the site of the last and most decisive battle of the Cuban Revolution, and ends in the capital of Havana. Save $200 per person on this departure: Jun 12-18.

Jazz in Havana (6 Days / 5 Nights)

Get deep into the groove of Cuba’s world-famous jazz on this musical journey throught the heart and soul of Havana and the charming town of Matanzas. Save $200 per person on departures: Jun 17-22 and July 8-13.

Weekend in Havana (5 Days / 4 Nights)

Like the sizzling salsa rhythms that ripple through its cobblestone streets. Havana springs to life with warmth and vivaciousness that never stops taking you by surprise.  Save $100 per person on departures: Jun 18-22, Jul 2-6, Aug 20-24, and Sep 24-28.

To take advantage of the savings, call 800-450-2822 or visit www.insightcuba.com/summer-promotion. The Summer Promotion must be booked before May 8, 2014 or while spaces last. Promotional savings is per person and for new bookings only. This offer may not be combined with any other offer or discount. Available on select tours and dates only as indicated on our website. Offer valid while space is available. Insight Cuba reserves the right to end this promotion at any time. Discount has no cash value.

Once the wheels of our American Airlines charter plane screeched on the runway, signaling that we had landed on Cuban soil, a roar of applause started. Nothing surprising so far, we Romanians do the same once we land to safety. The difference was I had just landed in Cuba, on a plane full of Americans, myself included. The only ones applauding were the Cuban Americans, visiting their families. The rest of us still had our noses pegged to the window. 

There is something magical about the arrival of spring: a sense of renewal, blossoming flowers and lots of sunshine to look forward to. And for this next spring, an extra reason to celebrate: Cuba is calling!

With the number of Americans visiting Cuba reaching a record high, only second to Canada in total of visitors, there has never been a more exciting time for Americans to visit the fascinating Caribbean island. With increased services in tourism, and a buoyant vibe on its streets, Cuba is burgeoning into a most enthralling, rewarding destination.

Which is why we just released our spring travel dates for 2015, for those of you looking to plan your trip to Cuba in the loveliest of seasons.

2015 also marks Insight Cuba’s fifteenth year anniversary since providing legal travel to Cuba. It’s been an exciting journey of sending thousands of Americans to the once forbidden island, in what symbolizes for many the fulfillment of a long-desired dream.  

So, if you want to get ahead of your 2015 travels, book now!

Join us on a new 2015 departure

or

Take advantage of our
Summer Savings 

Insight Cuba caught up with Nicole Melancon, a writer, advocate and global volunteer from Minneapolis, MN, following her Classic Cuba tour with Insight Cuba. A world traveler and dedicated volunteer for Insight Cuba's parent company Cross-Cultural Solutions, Nicole had wanted to visit Cuba ever since she was a teenager, spending Christmas holidays in Key West, Florida. 

Insight Cuba: Who is Nicole?

Nicole Melancon: I am a writer, advocate and global volunteer residing in Minneapolis, MN with my husband and two children, Max (9) and Sophia (7). I have been fortunate to travel my entire life, to over 35 countries. I majored in French and International Relations and studied in Paris and Marseille, France during college. I had a corporate career for many years before children, but found my true passion in using my voice to share my travels and stories from around the world. For the past three years, I’ve worked hard at developing my personal blog www.thirdeyemom.com where I write about travel, culture and social good. I am passionate about giving back and using my blog to advocate for a variety of international non-profits and causes such as poverty, access to water and sanitation, education, women and girls rights, and global health. I also try to volunteer once a year in a developing country and have so far worked in Morocco, Costa Rica, Guatemala, and Honduras.

Why Cuba and what did you like most while there?

I have always dreamed of going to Cuba since I was a teenager, while spending Christmas holidays in Key West, Florida. Cuba has always intrigued me by its history, culture and relative forbidden nature to Americans. I wanted to see Cuba for myself, to form my own opinions. It was also very important to see Cuba before it opened up to Americans.

I love how Cubans spend a lot of time socializing on the front steps of buildings. 

I saw these girls at Jose Fuster's Community Art Project. They live in the community and I loved this picture of them on the bench with art surrounding their smiles. 

My favorite thing by far in Cuba was the amazing, warm and welcoming people. Although my Spanish is not 100% fluent, it didn’t matter.  I also love history and Cuba fascinated me more than any other place I’ve been to. I often felt like I was in a time warp, a place that had been frozen back to 1959. The old cars, the decaying buildings, the non-stop salsa and son, the colors and smells of Cuba all made me fall in love with her inescapable charm.

Why Insight Cuba?

I had volunteered three times with Cross-Cultural Solutions, Insight Cuba's parent company, and knew that they were outstanding. I had also had a few recommendations from fellow travelers who said that Insight Cuba is the best. I reviewed the website and signed up right away!

Which tour were you on? Can you share some highlights?

I selected the Classic Cuba tour, which brought us to Havana, Trinidad and Cienfuegos. I only had a week, so this tour was perfect for what I wanted to see and the amount of time I had.

The real Cuban: Saw this man on his donkey in Trinidad.

My trip to Cuba was absolutely amazing and above and beyond what I imagined. I had so many highlights, and some were actually a bit unexpected.

(1) Going on a people to people tour was amazing. Instead of being a tourist, I felt as though I was a student taking a university class. We received firsthand knowledge into a large variety of Cuban life, ranging from the arts, architecture, music, dance, gastronomy, history and their day-to-day living. It was phenomenal and there is no way I would ever have learned so much going to Cuba simply as a tourist. We also got to interact directly with Cubans, every single day and at every meeting.

(2) I have never, ever traveled with a group. I always travel independently and was very weary of traveling with a group of 20 strangers and having to be on a “tour.” Yet the first day we were all together, I realized how wrong I had been! Everyone was fabulous and well-traveled. Meeting this wonderful group of fellow Americans, most of which were much older than me, opened my eyes and made the trip even more special.

I left the hotel at 7 am and arrived at Plaza de Catedral. Had the entire place to myself and watched Old Havana wake up! 

(3) A real highlight for me was when I rose early or stayed out late exploring Cuba on my own. Our tour began usually by 8:30 or 9 am, yet I was on my feet with camera in tow by 7 am, snapping pictures and meeting local Cubans. I returned to places we didn’t get to visit instead of returning to the hotel to relax or lounge by the pool. It gave me a well-balanced trip and also gave me one-on-one opportunities to meet friendly people in the area.

Met these men while exploring on my own. They played music and danced with me. Fun memory!

One afternoon I took a walk exploring Central Havana and met this man. We chatted for a while and he played different songs on his guitar for me. It was fantastic!

(4) Lastly, some of the highlights during my trip included salsa dancing at the Casa de la Musica in Trinidad, each and every fabulous meal, and watching the Buena Vista Social Club in Old Havana.

How was it to travel as a solo traveler with a big group?

I was surprised that traveling with our group of 20 was more fun than I imagined. I had a lot of concerns with group travel but our group was fabulous, well-traveled and easy-going. I also found plenty of opportunities to sneak off on my own, before and after the tour. Normally, I would never go on a tour but the way Insight Cuba structures this tour, I would do it again! It was marvelous!

We entered an enormous villa in Old Havana that was being restored and took a peak into the courtyard. I saw this young man taking a break and it kind of symbolized a lot about Cuba to me. The pride and hard work, difficult life and hope for renewal. 

You’re a mother of two. What did you think of Cuba’s children and what lessons have you learned to share with your kids?

As a mother, I was extremely impressed by the level of family commitment and involvement in Cuba. Many families live together with extended family, which is wonderful for the children. I also am envious of some of the social services that children in Cuba have, that we don’t in the US. Better maternity care and leave, free education, and excellent universal health care. Another thing that impressed me with Cuba is how much more integrated Cubans are by race. Racism exists, but in my opinion not nearly as much as it does in the US. These are important lessons the Cuban children are receiving: that everyone is equal. 

What’s your perspective on social good and advocacy in Cuba?

I was very impressed by all the social good work being done at the community level. Of course there is a lot being done by the Cuban government, but I was inspired by how Cubans saw unmet needs in their communities and established their own programs to help. Such examples include the Jose Fuster’s Community Art project, Los Manos Music School, and the Children’s theater.

Advice to prospective travelers to Cuba? 

Go now! That’s my first piece of advice. Although we don’t know for certain, Cuba will someday open up to travel and I am not sure what kinds of changes it will bring. Second, go with an open mind, free of any expectations and enjoy every single moment of it. It is a lovely, magical place and by far one of the best trips I’ve ever taken out of many. I fell in love with Cuba and was cast by her magical spell. It is a wonderful place and I hope to go back soon!

All photos, courtesy of Nicole Melancon

Who: For nature explorers

Where: Viñales Valley, an official national park and the most visited location in the Pinar del Río province 

Why: As the mist settles between the mogotes of the lush Viñales Valley, these epic limestone hill formations tower over the landscape like age-old giants. Dotted with palm trees, the arable land here is largely used for tobacco crops, cultivated using traditional techniques dating back several centuries. You’re bound to see an old man chewing tobacco atop an oxen-pulled cart working his way through the fields. The caves scattered amongst these hills were once home to indigenous communities, long before the Spanish conquerors arrived, making this place steeped in history and significance. In addition to the natural wonders, the rich vernacular tradition in architecture, crafts and music, has won the valley UNESCO World Heritage status. In recent years it has become a major destination for outdoor pursuits including hiking, biking, rock climbing, bird watching or spelunking, although tourist development has been sensitive and you can feel utterly isolated if you choose. Viñales village is the usual jump off point for explorers, which, despite the tour groups, remains picturesque and sleepy. It rains most afternoons. Just think of the lush vegetation as you shelter under a tree.

Who: For music lovers

Where: Santiago de Cuba, in the province of the same name, Cuba’s second largest city

Why: Even before you’ve reached the doors of your hotel or casa here, you will have heard the sound of the island’s sweet salsa, the beat of a drum, a song from an open window, or the first chords of the band striking up in the plaza. As you walk the narrow streets, just follow your ears. The entire city moves to a contagious beat, as if music is the city’s lifeblood. In many ways it is. This was the birthplace of the distinctive Cuban musical style Trova with its poetic lyrics and improvised refrains. It is also home to numerous regional bands playing son, salsa and rumba. The spontaneous cultural of live performances reaches a heady zenith during the Fiesta del Caribe and Carnival in July in a rush of colour and feathers. The Casa de la Trova here is the country’s most famous and it would be easy just to park up here for the duration of your stay with a cup of ron and open ears.

Photo by Tyler Wetherall

Who: For artists, architects and their aficionados

Where: Camagüey, capital of the Camagüey province

Why: One of the original seven villas founded by Diego Velazquez in 1515, Camagüey grew fat on its sugar fortune in the 17th century, as grand squares, churches and monuments sprung up, architectural hallmarks of a leading Spanish colonial town. Camagüey stands out, however, from other colonial towns for its labyrinthine layout with serpentine streets and irregular urban blocks. Plagued by pirates, it is thought this structure was intended to confuse the marauders, though now it plays the same trick on the tourists. Get lost amongst the lanes of multi-coloured houses and discover neoclassical cathedrals, Art Deco palaces and wide bright plazas at every wrong turn. The architecture isn’t suspended in a vacuum – this is very much a working, modern town, and boasts a thriving art scene, as well. Home to many of Cuba’s most celebrated artists, head to the Plaza del Carmen to explore this hub of artists’ studios and galleries.

Photo by Tyler Wetherall

Who: For foodies

Where: Baracoa, a municipality and city in Guantánamo Province, near the eastern tip of Cuba

Why: Cut off from the rest of Cuba for hundreds of years by the wild jungle-covered mountains of the Guantanamo province, Baracoa – Cuba’s first settlement – developed a food culture unique to the rest of the island. Accessible only by sea, it was here that exiles were abandoned to their fate, though there are far worse fates to endure. The oyster-shaped bay, lined with white sand beaches and the impressive anvil-shaped El Yunque Mountain in the backdrop, boasts ten rivers running through the dense tropical jungle, with an abundance of natural resources. Cocoa, coconuts, mangoes and bananas are the agricultural staples present on most dining tables, and the cuisine has a distinctive indigenous influence.  The area is famous for its sweets from delicacy cucurucho - a mix of grated coconut, sugar and usually a fruit such as guava inside a palm leaf – to chorrote, the thick local chocolate drink. Also common is fish in lechita, a creamy milk and coconut sauce. But simply having a freshly caught lobster cooked up by the locals who live beachside is enough of a treat.

Who: For party people and Che worship

Where: Santa Clara, the capital of Villa Clara

Why: Most nights, Parque Vidal slowly fills with the city’s youth, as groups gather in each corner under the orange lamplight exchanging rowdy shouts between them. The scene is lively and boisterous, just like this city. Santa Clara isn’t for everyone. It’s Cuba’s grittiest city, home to the most prestigious university outside of Havana, which draws in the large student population. But it is these young people that are to thank for the excellent and edgy nightlife from bohemian terrace bar Peña El Mejunje with its poetry readings and live performances to Brutal Fest, a ten-day Cuban rock festival. This isn’t Santa Clara’s only appeal. Heroic guerrilla Che Guevara has reached near saint-like status here – even more so than elsewhere – as this is where his remains are entombed. Visit his mausoleum, or any of the many monuments or museums in his honour, such as the Boxcar Museum. This is where Che along with 18 young revolutionaries derailed an armoured train using nothing more than a bulldozer and some Molotov cocktails, effectively ending the Batista regime in 1958.

 All other photos by Robin Thom, © all rights reserved

Tyler Wetherall is a freelance travel writer and editor. Follow her on Twitter @tylerwrites. 

Doctor Café is perhaps Havana´s most non-descript fine dining experience.  The name inspires images of sandwich nibbling and coffee sipping on a Parisian sidewalk.  The setting, a back patio in the residential neighborhood of Miramar, feels more homely than haute cuisine is accustomed. 

The first hint that you might be about to indulge in some serious culinary skill is when the waiter recites the menu.  From that point on, it’s all about the food. 

When Doctor Café opened in 1996, the owner, Dr. Oscar de la Concepción, wanted to take advantage of Cuba´s new laws permitting private restaurants and offer his home cooking to the general public.  Dr. Oscar began with the traditional Cuban creole cuisine:  grilled pork, chicken and fish served with sides of fried plantains, black bean stew, and white rice. 

Today the kitchen is professionally provisioned and staffed.  The international fusion cuisine features rabbit in a selection of reductions, prime cuts of imported Uruguayan beef, and elaborate seafood preparations from ingredients pulled out of the same Caribbean Sea just a block away.

“We had to change our business model a few times because of Cuban law, as well as to meet the demands of our client’s palates,” Dr. Oscar told me after a dinner of roasted rabbit in a reduced malta sauce. 

Dr. Oscar retired as a renowned obstetrician/gynecologist a few years back and handed over control of the restaurant to his children the past year.  As we talk, I just can´t imagine this attentive and zen-calm man running between the operating room and his kitchen, as he did for 15 years. 

But how do you retire from a restaurant located on the patio of your apartment?  “This is a family business; we are a family of cooks and doctors so I have plenty of people to continue our success, and they live here too.” 

It was during a visit to family in the United States that Dr. Oscar found inspiration for naming his restaurant.  “The best Cuban food I have eaten outside of my country was at Victor Café in New York City, so I paid homage to them in our name.”

Dr. Café doesn´t publish a menu.  This makes ordering tricky for first timers, since the offerings are extensive and universally appealing.

“Too often menus in Cuba offer food that the kitchen doesn´t have and I never want to give clients false expectations, so we only offer what we can prepare,” Dr. Oscar explains.  “Besides, most of our guests are regulars and they know that when they walk in and tell our cook what they feel like eating, we will exceed expectations.”  As a newbie, I appreciated the patient and multilingual wait staff. 

Looking around during dinner, I couldn´t help but notice that most of the people showing up exchanged pleasantries with the staff and passed comments from table to table.  Handshakes followed by embraces, rolling laughing, and back slapping are common sights and sounds. 

Indeed, you won´t find Doctor Café by looking for tour busses parked outside the entrance. 

“When these big groups come in, the quality of the food can´t be maintained to the standards we have now.  Our market is regular guests and tourists stopping by on their own,” Dr. Oscar explains says as he explains his business model. 

Perhaps that is why Doctor Café maintains the non-descript name and setting, not afraid to partially conceal itself amongst louder and flashier paladares.  They let their food speak for itself, as their many loyal customers quietly spread the word of some of Havana´s finest international cuisine. 

Doctor Café is located in Miramar on 28^th street in between 1^st and 3^rd.  It serves international fusion cuisine every day of the week until midnight, as it has for the past 18 years.  Call (7) 203-4718 for reservations of indoor or outdoor seating.  

Written by Graham Sowa.

Insight Cuba caught up with Jeff Phillippe, an Insight Cuba tour leader that used to spend his days guiding mountain expeditions all over the U.S. and South America. With over fifty trips to Cuba, Jeff discusses why Cuba is his favorite place to travel in Latin America and how first-time travelers to the island can experience the authentic Cuba he has come to love. 

Insight Cuba: Who is Jeff?

Jeff Phillippe: My background is quite diverse.  I have worked for ten years leading wilderness expeditions all over the U.S., Patagonia, and Peru.   I taught secondary Science and Geography for five years, and I have a Masters in Water Resource Science, for which I used to lead water evaluation surveys in rural areas of Central America. 

Originally hailing from upstate New York, I now consider myself to have geographic commitment issues.  I have been living out of a backpack for six years now, bouncing between leading tours and traveling independently, mostly in Latin America.  Truthfully, if I spend more than three months in the same place, I start to get edgy.  In my free time, I enjoy rock-climbing, running marathons, and going to the cinema for 8 cents in Havana.  

What propelled you to become a tour leader for Insight Cuba?

After doing a 15-month backpacking journey around Central and South America, I had decided that Cuba was where I wanted to be.  Traveling in Cuba is such a unique experience.  The way people take on struggles with a sense of humor is inspiring.  I have never laughed so hard in my life as I did while on my first visit to Cuba.  And of course, there is the music and dancing, which I have fallen in love with.

Leading educational and cultural tours around Cuba has been a refreshing break from guiding mountain expeditions, but in the end, I use a similar skill set regarding group dynamics, pushing people’s comfort zones, and enhancing adaptation to new environments. 

A young girl from Havana gets a boost to get a view of the May 1^st Worker’s Day Parade.

I love working for Insight Cuba because I get to do so many types of trips.  Many companies only offer one or two standard trips.  With Insight Cuba, I have led twelve different types of trips into all parts of the island, including exchanges with doctors, lawyers, geologists, and artists.

Favorite Insight Cuba tours that you lead and why?

Hands-down, my favorite Insight Cuba tour to lead is “Undiscovered Cuba.”  It takes our guests off the beaten path and penetrates the Eastern provinces, which is my favorite part of the island.  The tour finishes in Baracoa, an isolated city in the remotest region of Guantanamo.  Here people live simply, and the stunning mountains, rivers and sea play an integral role in their daily lives.  Residents here are the happiest and friendliest people I have met in all of my travels and I consider many of them to be family.  It is an absolute pleasure to introduce our guests to them.

Havana is also a marvelous city to explore.  For me, it ranks alongside Rio de Janeiro and New York as three of the most jaw-dropping cities of the Western Hemisphere.  But to experience the authentic Cuba, the time-warped country that you have dreamed about, you have to penetrate deep into the provinces.

You’ve received countless positive comments from the Insight Cuba travelers. What has been your greatest reward?

My greatest reward is seeing guests actively interact with Cubans and getting a clearer sense of what life is like here.  People-to-People travel gets a lot of criticism by anti-Cuba congressmen and senators, who think we are putting on a show in Cuba, failing to show the realities of the Cuban struggle.  On the trips I lead, this is far from the truth.  The majority of our activities include a time for conversation with the hosts and debriefing.  Life in Cuba is hard.  People have to use creativity to get by.  Cubans are eager to share their stories and my guests have learned a lot from them. 

A “guajiro” in the Sierra Maestra mountains of the Granma province.

What do you like most about Cuba?

I like the fact that you can’t figure out this place in one trip.  In fact, I’ve done more than fifty trips here, and this island still perplexes me.  As you travel from one country to another in Latin America, cultures and histories can become repetitive.  Cuba is different from anything else you have seen.  For this reason, a guide I work with encourages groups to “reset their hard drives” when they arrive to Cuba.  Systems are different here.  How do people get by on the average salary of 20 dollars a month?  Why is there relatively no crime here?  You will slowly learn the answers as you interact with people here.  And you will probably return home with more questions than you had when you started.

Best and worst day as a tour leader in Cuba?

On day 10 of the “Undiscovered Cuba” trip, my group was loving its first full day in Baracoa.  We visited the home of old friends, shared juice and stories on their terrace, and talked about how folks “get by” in the Cuban countryside.  We proceeded to walk to their relative’s home, a very modest, wooden structure, nestled by a stream.  The guests were in awe of how welcoming everyone was as we walked through their property.  Suddenly, their 14-year old niece jumped out of the muddy forest with a machete, dressed as an old “guajiro,” or country peasant.  Our startled guests then enjoyed a ten-minute act that she had previously put on her for her school.  They laughed and danced and embraced the moment, just as any resident of Baracoa would.

I’m still waiting to experience my “worst” day.

Advice to prospective travelers to Cuba? 

Do as the Cubans do.  In your limited free time, go to the markets, the sporting events, the evening peñas (local dances and live music). Use Cuban pesos, the locals’ currency.  In whatever city you are in, skip a dinner and go to El Copelia instead, where you can wait in line for a 20-cent ice cream sundae.  Walk the streets of Central Havana.  Peek in the windows of the locals’ homes.  Get invited into their homes.  Talk to strangers.  Don’t focus on your time in hotels and restaurants.  Those are not the experiences you’ll remember.  Ask a lot of questions and return home with more.  Come to Cuba as soon as possible.  You never know if senseless politics will prevent us from going there in the near future.

Interview prepared by Monica Suma. You can follow her on Twitter @MonicaSuma. 

Dreams really do come true. You just have to run towards them.

by Tom Popper

In 2002, I met Michael, who was stricken with childhood leukemia. It wasn’t by chance. I had joined Team in Training to raise money for the Leukemia Lymphoma Society and was Michael’s sponsor. I was raising money— and running a marathon—for him.

During my nine months of training, I participated in a bunch of 5- and 10k races, and a half-marathon, and felt amazed by the bonds and camaraderie between runners all across the country and from all over the world.  This was my first marathon and I was hooked.

In 2003, during a meeting in Cuba, I learned about Cuba’s Marabana Havana Marathon. I left that meeting and immediately went to see Carlos Gattorno, the marathon director. I was not surprised to learn that only a very small number of Americans had participated in the race since its inception in 1987. After all, 40 years of tight travel restrictions meant that there was no legal way for Americans to participate. After speaking with Carlos I could vividly imagine American and Cuban athletes running side by side, joining hands in triumph as they crossed the finish line for the first time. We couldn’t know, however, that an idea would turn into a ten-year struggle.

Weeks after our meeting, President Bush announced broad changes to travel regulations, eliminating most categories of permissible travel. At the end of 2003, family travel, religious travel, and educational travel were severely minimized and people-to-people was eliminated.  Over the next few years, we sought permission to organize a marathon trip for American runners, to no avail. Few Americans were allowed to travel to Cuba at all during the next eight years. Then, everything changed.

On January 21, 2011, President Obama announced that he was restoring many categories of travel, including people-to-people, to Cuba. We began our work in earnest.

During the first year of restored people-to-people travel, we sent thousands of Americans to Cuba legally.  However, we were informed by the U.S. Department of the Treasury, Office of Foreign Assets Control that a trip to the marathon for runners would not be authorized under the people-to-people license.

If there’s one thing that working in Cuba has taught me, it’s don’t give up. We applied for a license under a new category of travel with faint hope that we would receive authorization to bring runners in 2014.

On May 1, after 10 years, Insight Cuba received authorization to bring 156 runners under its new amateur sports license.

If you’re a distance runner, and have always wanted to visit Cuba, I invite you to join us for a momentous journey to Cuba to make running history.

I was kept on the sidelines for the actual marathon because of injuries, but I raised almost $20,000, and last I heard, Michael was doing well.

Tom Popper is president of Insight Cuba, a leading provider of legal people-to-people travel to Cuba. Insight Cuba was the first to bring Americans to Cuba under this provision in 2000. The company has sent more than 10,000 Americans to Cuba legally.